August 23rd, 2016

Day 145: The Ngorongoro Crater

We were on a *tight* schedule today as our admission to the Ngorongoro Crater was exactly 6hrs. We were out the door by 6AM in order to pass through the gates the moment they opened at 6:30AM. Because the crater is such a small and delicate ecosystem (only 100 square miles inside the rim), the best way to limit the vehicle traffic is to charge INSANE entrance fees (upwards of USD$100pp plus USD$40 vehicle). The crater is also off limits to buses and 2WD cars – only 4x4s are allowed.

Even though we were only in the crater for a short time, the wildlife was spectacular! Once again, the density of animals far surpasses anything we saw in Namibia or Botswana – especially predators. Since we had to exit the crater at 12:30PM sharp, we waited until we were on the road back to Arusha to take a break for lunch, in order to get the most out of our half-day game drive. We returned to the capital in the late afternoon, with plenty of time to relax and reflect on the fantastic conclusion to our Tanzania adventure. Next stop: Kenya.

 

Entering the Ngorongoro Crater as soon as the gates open at 6:30AM

 

Inside the Ngorongoro Crater, where waves of fog spill over the 2,000ft rim

The grassland floor of the Ngorongoro Crater

 

While male lions are supposed to be fiercely territorial, these two brother must be very young as they were adorably affectionate with each other

 

Baby brother gets a kiss and snuggles up for more love

 

While the crater is dominated by the big guys – lions and hyenas – smaller predators can be seen scavenging their scraps. A pair of jackals pick clean the ribs of a recent kill, and a short distance away we spot our only Bat-eared Fox

 

So many hyenas! There are an estimated 450 hyenas within the crater, vastly outnumbering the 60-70 lions. While they have a reputation for stealing and scavenging the kills from lions (thanks, Disney!), it reality it is actually the reverse.

 

A dominant hyena (probably female) selfishly finishes the head of a dead wildebeest as the rest of the pack wanders off in search of new meat. She is so close that we can hear the CRUNCH as she chews through the skull, making her way to the brain. Unlike lions who leave the bones, hyenas eat EVERY part of the animal except the horns, which helps keep the crater clean.

 

The Ngoitokitok Spring – one of the most important fresh water sources for animals in the crater. A herd of Cape Buffalo graze up top while a family of hippo lounge in the water

 

A mama hippo with the teeniest baby hippo we have seen yet! Joseph guesses it can’t be more than a few weeks old

 

Hippos aren’t the only ones taking to the water to escape the rising heat! A crafty elephant wades in up to his neck, munching on vegetation

 

A warthog and a Kopi Bustard on the grasslands within the Ngorongoro Crater

 

As we were driving along, Joseph noticed dozens of cars heading down the road – as we passed one he asked the driver in Swahili what was up. Turns out one of the few rhinos had been spotted, so every vehicle in the area was booking it to the sighting. We were very amused as we counted over 20 cars lined up along the road, trying to catch a glimpse of the one rhino, standing a good 500m away. Since we had plenty of rhino sightings in southern Africa (granted they were the more plentiful White Rhinos, not the critically endangered Black Rhino), we weren’t as desperate to snap a picture, but now we can honestly claim that we saw all Big 5 in Tanzania!

 

As we made our way down the road from the rhino, we came across three very full, very tired lions. Judging by their huge bellies and their heavy panting, these guys must have just finished eating a kill

 

As we parked the car to snap pictures, the two lionesses walked up to us. The poor girls were hot and wanted to get out of the sun – one lion laid down in the shadow of the car directly in front on the hood. The second actually *crawled under the car* and settled herself between the front and back tires! All we could see of her was a giant foot sticking out from under the car! Another safari vehicle drove up and started snapping pictures, joking, “You guys aren’t going anywhere for a while!” No, seriously, how are we going to drive off with a lion under our wheel? When Joseph turned on the engine, the lioness didn’t move a muscle. Asking us where exactly she was under the car, he carefully started to move in reverse, causing the lion to adjust herself but she still stayed under the car. After rocking the vehicle gently back and forth a few times, she finally got the hint and walked off.

 

A flock of regale African Crowned Storks

Our final view of the Ngorongoro Crater as we drive up and out the exit gate

 

A short lunch break near an African crafts market (where Lindsay finds the perfect Christmas ornament), before returning to Arusha. We had a marvelous time with Joseph from Base Camp Tanzania!