August 2nd, 2016

Day 124: The Okavango Delta – Day 1

We had a bit of an adventure on our journey to the Kadizora Camp in the northern part of the Okavango Delta. We had yet to pick up any Pula (the local currency), so we stopped in the nearest town, Shakawe to hit up the ATM. When we drove by the night before, there was a line of about 50 locals waiting to money, so we were relieved to see that we were the first ones to show up when the bank opened at 8:30AM. Lindsay waited in the car while Igor made his transaction – she started to get worried when 15 minutes went by and he was still in front of the machine. He came back to the car laughing – apparently the ATM was busy installing Windows Updates!

We continued on to the Mohembe Ferry – a tiny, ramshackle hunk of floating metal that somehow supports 2-3 cars at time across the river. Luckily for us, there were no cars waiting when we arrived at 9AM, so we drove directly on board for the 10min ride.

 

Travel delays: ATM installing Windows updates and 2-car ferries

 

This ferry is ancient, and operated by two motorboat engines jerry-rigged to the side

View of the Okavango, as it quickly starts to spread across the land, transitioning from a river to a delta

Since our next camp was located on an island within the delta, Russell from Green Bushpig arranged for us to park our rental car at a nearby camp where the Kadizora boat could pick us up. The only problem is, the camp – Jumbo Junction – is not used to self-drive tourists (most guests are part of overlander groups), and there is *no sign* for the turn off to the camp from the gravel road. However, according to Russell’s instructions there was supposed to be a flag on the right hand side of the road indicating the turn-off, “about 30KM outside of Seronga”, the nearest town.

Well, we drove about 35KM outside of Seronga without seeing a flag. We figured we must have missed it, so we backtracked about 10KM – still no flag. We pulled over when we saw some road workers and asked them if they knew where the turn for Jumbo Junction was – everyone always pointed us in the right direction, and estimated the same distance as our original instructions, but STILL NO FLAG. Cursing Russell under our breath, we finally accepted that the flag must have been taken down, so when we saw a trail of tire marks heading off the road in approximately the correct location, we decided to drive down the sandy driveway and see if we were right.

We weren’t. It was just some guy’s farm. And we nearly got stuck trying to turn around! We asked him for directions too, and he shook his head. “You’ll never find it.” Apparently the flag is down, and there were zero landmarks for him to give us directions. However, this guy was super nice and offer to come in the car with us and guide us to the turnoff, as long as we promised to drive him back to his farm. We happily agreed, and even gave him N$100 for his trouble.

When we finally got to the Jumbo Junction Campground, the place was empty, except for the kitchen staff, who clearly weren’t expecting us. Apparently the camp managers were out, picking up an overlander group and would be back in about an hour. Since it was about 12:30PM by this point (we should have been here an hour ago!), we decided to relax in the camp bar and have a little lunch while we waited.

 

A sausage tree, with seed pods that weight up to 15lbs! Bad luck to anyone standing underneath one when it falls…

 

Waiting for our boat transfer at the Jumbo Junction Campground, where we discover a small colony of fruit bats sleeping inside the bar’s thatched roof

About an hour later, a huge group of 20-somethings arrived as part of the Nomad overlander group. We waited patiently while the managers introduced them to the camp and served them lunch. About another hour later, we finally reminded the managers about our transfer to Kadizora (apparently they had mistaken us for part of the Nomad group) – it was a long, LONG morning, but finally we were on our way…to paradise!

 

Our boat has arrived, to take us into the Okavango Delta

 

Serene and stunning – the Okavango Delta in Botswana

 

Wildlife sightings on the way to camp: a hippo in the “hippo pool” and a grazing elephant

 

Disembarking in a community concession in the delta, about 50KM from the next lodge – truly remote!

When we arrived at the Kadizora Camp, our jaws dropped – this was by far and away the most luxurious place we have *ever* stayed. Not just in Africa. Not just on this trip. EVER. It was seriously like being inside a movie-set safari – the camp was made of canvas tents that had gorgeous wood tables and leather sofas inside. On the outside? Elephants. Just wandering through the camp (we were forbidden to walk from our tent to the common area alone at night). Oh, and our stay was ALL INCLUSIVE. All the excursions, all the food, and all the BOOZE was included.

Russell, you did good.

 

That’s not a picture frame, nor a TV. It’s a *window*. And THAT is a HUGE ELEPHANT WALKING THROUGH THE CAMP!

 

Our safari tent – ultimate luxury in the middle of the bush. And here’s the real kicker: THERE’S WIFI IN THE ROOM. J

 

Heading out for an afternoon mokoro ride

 

A couple of boots in a mokoro canoe on the Okavango Delta

 

Floating through a sea of lily pads

 

A handsome bull elephant gives us a side-eye as we glide by

 

We spot a local in a traditional (wooden) mokoro in the distance

 

Beautiful scenery in the Okavango Delta

 

Thousands of birds take to the sky as we pass by

 

Stopping on an island for sundowner drinks

 

Birds, birds, and more birds!

 

Heading back to camp after a lovely sunset

 

Campfire in the Kadizora Camp – producing a lovely atmosphere and hot coals for our venison braai!