Day 254: Chiang Rai
While there is probably A LOT to see and do in Chiang Rai, we had to limit ourselves to just the truly unique – and we found it with the White Temple! Wat Rong Khun – or as it is more commonly known, The White Temple – is a modern-day interpretation of a Thai Buddhist temple, designed by artist Ajarn Chalermchai Kositpipat. From a distance, the complex appeared to be a stunningly beautiful, glittering white palace. As we entered, however, the serenity was broken by scary monsters, haunting hands, and bizarre Hollywood movie characters. The temple is totally freaky, but it works! Fun visit.
The White Temple – while it maintains a lot of the fancy, pointy roofs and bling we have come to associate with Thai architecture, there are a lot of pop-culture and “modern art” elements throughout the complex
Lindsay walks over the “Bridge of Rebirth” to enter the main temple
Underneath the bridge is a writhing sea of outstretched hands and demonic faces, representing worldly greed. The idea is that you have pass over temptations in order to reach heaven
The “guardians of heaven” glare at the visitors entering the temple
Walking around the White Temple
A mix of conventional and nonconventional depictions of Buddhist ideology – cartoonish murals illustrating the evils of the modern world morph into more traditional images of serene, meditating Buddhas as visitors progress from the “real world” to the metaphorical “heaven”
Hundreds thousands of leaf-shaped pendants hang from the walls, walkways, and decorate tiered holders throughout the complex – each one contains a message or wish from a visitor (only 30 Bhat!)
We forgo the lucky leaves and toss coins in the lotus well instead – since your wish only comes true if you land your coin in the center lotus, we lose a good 30 Bhat regardless since we have terrible aim
Pop culture meets Buddhism: figurines from Disney & Marvel comics can be found all around the temple, along with a bottle of demon whiskey
Two huge Lost & Found cabinets sit within the Dhamma Hall – not sure if this is a genuine claim center or if it’s part of the art installation…I mean, the thing is full of iPhones, car keys and even bank cards (which the temple has kindly left the numbers and expiration date visible!)
About 26km down the road is the Baan Dam Museum (AKA – Black House), another arty, temple-like compound. If the White Temple is supposed to be “heaven,” then Black House is “Hell.” Designed by another Thai artist, Thawan Duchanee, the place is a creepy, gothic playland, with “temples” full of animal skulls, skins and furs. We wander around the complex for a little while, but the “message” here (if there even is one) wasn’t as engaging as the more optimistic White Temple (at least there seemed to be a path of redemption there!), but it was on the way to our hotel so, why not stop for a visit?
WARNING: one of the pictures below is NSFW!
Visiting the Black House – Baan Dam
THE ANGST. With his long hair and ponytail, Igor can totally pull off the tortured artist look!
The “Sanctuary Hall” of the Baan Dam Temple – with all the snake skins and bull horns, the place looks like Satan’s dining room
Well, that’s a big, black penis.
While the majority of Baan Dam is either frightening or intentionally grotesque, many of the chapels have gorgeous naga (snake) wood carvings – all made at the onsite studio. They are so intricately detailed, they actually remind us of the Maori carvings we saw in New Zealand
Since we are self-driving, we can access more remote hotels, hidden in the mountains of Chiang Rai. We end up with a GINORMOUS suite in a near-deserted resort. Seriously, the bathrooms in Thailand just keep getting bigger…
Enjoying the sunset from our balcony
Oh course, that great view comes with a price: our room is a good 15min uphill walk through the empty, dark resort to reach the restaurant. When we finally arrive, we perk up when we see it decked out for the holidays (they even have a wood-burning fireplace!)
Another problem with this resort is that you are a truly *cap* audience. Since we are a good 10KM down a one-lane mountain road away from the main street, going off site for dinner is not an option. We have our most expensive meal in Thailand to date: USD $50 – ouch!
Still cheaper than an NYC dinner! That temple is otherworldly…