Day 277: Antarctica Cruise Day 13 – Waterboat Point
We woke to yet another gloriously sunny day for our visit to the Chilean Naval Base, González Videla Station, located on the small peninsula of Waterboat Point. Though it is now claimed by the Chileans, the beach’s first human inhabitants were British. Back in 1921, an ambitious expedition project was started by a Brit named John Cope – he planned and tried to raise funds for an outfit of over 100 researchers. He came up more than a bit short and ended up coming down to Antarctica with only 3 other people, two of who were barely teenagers! When their boat ran ashore, the leader and his second mate abandoned the project to go get help, but the youngsters volunteered to stay behind and continue the year-long project by themselves. They spent the entire winter in Antarctica (literally, the only two people on the entire continent at that time), living in an overturned lifeboat and surviving on penguin and seal meat. When their boss returned 11 months later to rescue them, they insisted that he go away and pick them up a month later – they wanted to finish the full year! Best. Interns. Ever.
The Chileans moved in to Waterboat Point in 1951 and built a small station that is still maintained during the summer season (empty in the winter) by 9 residents – five Navy and four Air Force. Since the Antarctic Treaty (signed by Chile in 1959) prohibits any nation from claiming any sovereignty over Antarctica, González Videla is considered an inactive military base, whose sole purpose is to conduct scientific research (mostly weather-related). In addition to the living area and research building, the base has a small museum & gift shop as well as a post office to lure cruise ships into stopping by – not only do the residents get an exciting afternoon with foreign visitors (and a rare chance to talk with someone new!) they also get a resupply of fresh produce (those guys must be *dying* for a fresh apple!).
Waterboat Point – a naturally protected beach within Paradise Harbor on the Antarctic Peninsula where an (inactive) Chilean military base is located
González Videla Station – a scientific research center run by the Chilean Navy and Air Force
Though it is now a Chilean base, the first people to spend the winter at Waterboat Point was a pair of British kids (aged 19 and 22) who continued a year’s worth of experiments even after their boss literally abandoned ship – to this day their data is used as a baseline for modern research
A shrine to the Virgin Mary has watched over the station since the 1960s. Igor climbs up the lookout tower just to be sure there is no danger on the horizon
It may be small, but the living quarters for the station’s inhabitants look pretty cozy (the high-def TV and case of Frontera must make the isolation much more bearable)
The base is super excited to welcome foreign visitors, and is one of the few places on the continent where you can send a postcard. Granted, it costs USD $5 a pop and will probably take over three months for delivery…
As we are taking a picture of the New York sign post, we hear an annoyingly wealthy teenager comment behind us, “I’ve been to every single one of these places.” Spoiled brat.
In addition to the nine Chilean officers, Waterboat Point was also home to a rookery of exactly 3,186 mating pairs of Gentoo Penguins. Once again, we found it very difficult to comply with IAATO’s 5m distance regulation – not because we were intentionally invading the penguin’s personal space! – it was because the penguins chose to build their nest and lay their eggs a foot away from the paved walkway that connected the dock to the base! As a result, we got incredibly close-up shots of the nesting birds, their eggs, and even their *tongues*!
Staying on the paved path to avoid stepping on the penguins’ nests…and also to avoid penguin poo. Seriously – every inch of the beach was covered in guano. And those guys can get projectile: just look at the sides of the buildings!
Nesting Gentoos – each couple splits their time sitting on a pair of eggs
Did you know that penguins have *barbed tongues*? It was really warm today, so the birds were panting, revealing their mouths to our cameras. Since they don’t have teeth, penguins tongues have evolved to have these barbs to prevent the fish they have swallowed whole from coming back up and escaping
It’s a warm summer day here in Antarctica, and all the birds are throwing their heads back and enjoying the sunshine
Hidden within this Gentoo colony is a very unique bird: “Marilyn” – a leukistic penguin! Leukism is a genetic abnormality that occurs in Gentoos about once per 10,000 where the bird doesn’t produce any melanin so it is white instead of black (similar to an albino). The Expedition Team isn’t positive Marilyn is a female, but the bright red bill just looks so much like lipstick against the blond feathers that the name stuck.
Gentoo Penguins aren’t the only birds on the beach – we spot a couple Snowy Sheathbills. These chicken-like birds look deceptively innocent – they are actually scavengers, and are lurking around the penguins’ nest to try and steal the eggs
When we try to return to the zodiac at the end of our allotted hour, we run into an obstacle that delays our return – a Gentoo Penguin decides it doesn’t want to walk in guano and starts taking up the paved walkway! A traffic jam builds up behind us as we snap pictures and wait for the bird to move. Eventually it does…but in the wrong direction! This little guy must really want to be on the cover of National Geographic because he keeps coming in for a close up
A beautiful Gentoo Penguin, making love to Igor’s camera – work it, baby!
Once we got back on ship, we decided to have lunch on the outdoor patio where we had a great view of the scenic landscape surrounding Paradise Harbor. As we sailed away that afternoon, we were treated to more beautiful icebergs, ice-capped mountains, and even a pod of about a dozen Orcas!
Lindsay’s descent into carnivorism is complete as she devours her first cheeseburger in months. #OMNOMNOM
It is just our imagination, or has someone been *skiing* down that mountain?
Passing by icebergs as we sail through Paradise Harbor
Another gorgeous sunny day on the Antarctica Peninsula
Everyone in the ENTIRE boat comes rushing to the deck when the captain tells us there is a big pod of Orcas surfacing just off the bow
Although they are common referred to as “Killer Whales,” Orcas are technically a dolphin.
We made late reservations at the ship’s fancy steakhouse restaurant, the Thomas Keller Grill, in order to celebrate New Year’s Eve. After dinner we listened to the guest performer, comedian Scott Harris, wax nostalgic about the Baby Boomers’ good ‘ days and rip into the absurdities of Millennial parenting (being childless we were a bit surprised to find out that kids have to use car seats until they are 8yo nowadays…seriously?). After the funny man wrapped up his show, we only had about an hour to kill on the dancefloor before our midnight countdown (even though Igor’s foot was still hurting, he couldn’t resist getting up and showing a pair of dancers attempting a rather violent hustle how it’s REALLY done). While 2016 might have been a shit year for most Americans, we had one of the best years of our lives since we got the hell outta dodge! While 2017 can’t possibly top last year for us, we’re optimistic that we’re at least getting off to a great start.
It’s formal night again, so we get all dolled up (except for Igor’s sneakers) and grab a table for two at the ship’s fancy steakhouse
The main stage is decked out with balloons and streamers, ready to welcome the new year
We’ve got another hour to go – keep those champagne glasses full!
Despite the older demographic (or maybe because of it…?) the dancefloor is *packed* on New Year’s Eve. We manage to find a little space for a few rumbas and a hustle or two
HAPPY NEW YEAR!
Just after our midnight toast we peek outside to illustrate the 24 hours of daylight we have in the Antarctic – this year will definitely be one-of-a-kind