Author: Lindsay and Igor

5 Things Every Global Traveler Should Get

Hitting the road for an extended period of time? If so, you’ll need to balance being light and nimble with being prepared and connected! We spent 365 days backpacking around the world, and here is a list of the 5 things we found the most useful during our travels.

1. GPS DEVICE

Full disclosure: we didn’t discover this item through our own research. When we told our friends and neighbors we were leaving the country for a year, they threw us a farewell party and gave us a Spot Gen3 tracking device as a going away present.

The Spot Gen3 is a small, 4″x 3″ GPS device which transmits its location via satellite every 10min (you can select different frequencies). It allows your friends and family to keep track of your location, even when you travel outside of cell service. It really helped keep our parents’ minds at ease, as they could monitor our journey with up-to-the-minute accuracy via a password-protected shared page share.findmespot.com. (Although, it did create a small amount of anxiety for Igor’s mother when she saw us unexpectedly backtracking when we got a flat tire in Botswana. We got a frantic email from her asking us if we had been kidnapped, as our Spot was traveling in the wrong direction!)

In the event that something *does* go wrong, the Spot Gen3 has two options to call for help: an assist button that alerts an emergency contact that you pre-programed on your account, and an SOS button that contacts an international emergency response center who will forward your coordinates to the nearest authorities to you (reserved for life-threatening purposes only). Luckily, we never needed to call for help, but it gave us the confidence we needed to venture out solo into some incredibly beautiful and remote locations.

At USD $169.95, the Spot Gen3 was an incredibly generous gift from our friends (thank you!), and it also requires a subscription service plan to active the device. The Basic Plan costs USD $149.95 for the first year (if you call to renew after 12 months, they will offer a significantly reduced rate), so it’s not a small expense. But if you’re constant the move and if you are going into remote territory alone, it’s a wise investment.

The only times the Spot Gen3 failed us, was in Antarctica (not on their coverage map, so that was expected) and in China. We frequently got “red light” alerts that the Spot Gen3 was having trouble pinpointing our location using satellite GPS, or discovered that the recorded coordinates were incorrect when we reviewed our saved tracks. Upon during some research online, discovered that the Chinese government restricts geographic data by scrambling the signal (which can only be unscrambled with a government permit).

Initially, we were really excited about the ability to download a map of our tracking activity and save it as a record of our journey. Unfortunately, the Spot Gen3 only archives data for 30 days, so we had to remember to login and save a copy of our “tracks” every month. Sadly, after we got home and terminated our tracking service we discovered that Spot deleted our account along with all of our saved maps. Boo.

2. CREDIT CARD WITH TRAVELER REWARDS

Less than a week before we left the country, Igor opened a Citi Prestige credit card. Touted as the “Best Credit Card for Travel,” we were lured in by the following tantalizing travel rewards:

  • 40,000 miles good toward any airline (after spending USD $4,000 in 3 months. Not difficult on a trip like this – we paid off the balance of our RV rental in New Zealand in the first month and were already done with this requirement)
  • VIP Priority Pass for free access to hundreds of airport lounges, for both cardholder *and* guest (this policy may have changed this year to only include the cardholder)
  • USD $250 air travel credit once per year
  • USD $100 credit for 1 Global Entry application fee (Igor got to take advantage of this – Lindsay didn’t)

There are more rewards possible when actually booking tours and hotels through the Citi Concierge, but we never took advantage of those.

Even though the credit card had a USD $500 annual fee (which we only paid once, as we immediately canceled the card once we returned to the States on day 365), we more than got our money’s worth. The USD $250 air travel credit alone cut the net cost in half. We were able to use the 40,000 miles to purchase our domestic flights within Argentina, which would have otherwise cost us USD $400pp. Finally, the VIP lounge access was a GODSEND. We ended up saving so much money on meals, booze and internet access, that we are positive that we came out ahead with this card! There are other cards like this (Chase Sapphire is another one, with almost identical benefits).

Chillin’ in the lounge one Day 1 – the first of many VIP lounges!

Now there were a few drawbacks. When we foolishly used the credit card in Bali and it got compromised, we had a rough time getting a replacement. Since we were still in Indonesia, we tried to have them send our new card to our hotel, but the fraud department thought it was too suspicious and rerouted it to our home address instead. This was incredibly annoying, as we were only on month 3 of our travels, and would not be back in the USA for 9 more months! After 2 more attempts at sending the card failed (apparently Indonesia is a red flag zone for Citi – their fraud department canceled the shipment each time, despite numerous attempts to override with managers), we finally got the card shipped to our hotel in Malaysia.

We considered keeping the Citi Prestige Card when we got back to the USA, however the benefits outlined above would not be used enough with domestic travel so it no longer made financial sense. For one thing, the VIP Priority Pass doesn’t have very good coverage in domestic airports in the USA – our main airport, JFK, for example only has a Priority Pass lounge in the Delta terminal, which we never use as we are American fliers. And while having Global Entry was a nice perk when returning to the USA, it’s useless everywhere else, so unless you are planning to come in and out of the country repeatedly, you won’t get much use out of it.

3. PACSAFE BACKPACK & MONEY BELT

While researching other travelers’ blogs in preparation for this trip, Igor read dozens of horror stories of travelers getting pickpocketed in a variety of scenarios:

  • slashing your bag from underneath your bus seat
  • opening your bag in the overhead bin while you are asleep during an overnight flight
  • breaking into your hotel room while you are out sightseeing
  • plus plenty of good, old fashioned mugging stories

In an attempt to protect our expensive electronic gear and passports while we were either in transit or at a hotel, Igor found the mother of all anti-theft travel bags: the Pacsafe Z-28. For USD $199, this baby was like Fort Knox: it had a stainless steel wire mesh built into the outer lining of the bag so it was completely slash-proof, and the mouth of the bag had a 2′ metal cable that looped through grommets, allowing you to lock the bag to a stationary object (bed, pole, car seat, etc.) to make sure no one could pick up the bag and take it without either destroying hotel furniture or using a bolt cutter.

The bag was small (20.9″ high x 13.0″ wide x 6.7″ deep – 28L capacity) and light enough that Igor was able to wear it during our 3-night trek in New Zealand, although it’s definitely not as comfortable as a hiking backpack. And while it didn’t have the volume capacity of the hiking backpack we brought, it didn’t really need it as all the electronics were small, but heavy. Packing more stuff in that bag would have made the weight distribution between the two of us too uneven. As it was, we were both shouldering our fair share.

 

A security belt that you can dress up or dress down!

As far as the money belt goes, most people bring the wide, flesh-colored “fanny pack” style belts that are supposed to hide under your clothes – and, admittedly, we did bring a pair of those too for our passports. But we also brought a third, even more discreet belt: the Thomas Bates Hiker Money Belt. From the outside, this USD $20 belt looked like a plain canvas, grip-buckle belt – nothing more than a practical fashion accessory. However, when flipped it over, there was a 1.5″ x 24″ zipped compartment where we were able to hide USD $500+ in folded $100 bills, plus a memory card with digital copies of our IDs and travel insurance info. While we never had any security problems during our trip, the extra cash in the belt came handy on more than one occasion where we had forgotten to hit up an ATM before travelling to a remote location.

 

4. CLOUD SERVICE

Back in college, Lindsay had a friend who went to Germany for a week. Poor girl had her backpack stolen from her hostel dorm room in the middle of the night and lost her camera, which had all her pictures on it – tragic! Even though we had a good deal of expensive equipment with us, the only things that were truly irreplaceable were our photos. So even though memory cards are massive nowadays, and can easily hold thousands of pictures, we didn’t want to risk losing our most precious possessions in the event we were robbed of literally everything we had.

It may have been overkill, but Igor opened TWO Cloud Service accounts for us: one with Microsoft OneDrive @ USD $99.99/year and a second with Amazon which we got for free for being Prime Members @ USD $10.99/mo. Whenever we had any internet access, we religiously uploaded the day’s pictures to the cloud, thus freeing up space on our memory cards & computers, safe guarding our memories, and giving our parents (who had access to our shared folders) sneek peeks of our travels (as Lindsay was typically 2 weeks behind on her daily blog entries).

 

5. KINDLE

When you are on the road for a year, you need to keep your bags as light as possible, therefore carrying books is out of the question. Even if you plan to use book exchanges at hostels, the extra weight of even ONE paperback can feel back-breaking.

While an e-reader seems like a no-brainer to keep avid readers entertained on long bus rides, during airport layovers, etc., the Amazon Kindle (USD $60 for the basic 6″, black & white screen) was far more useful than just giving Lindsay novels to read. About halfway through the trip, Lindsay decided to sign up for a free 30-day trial of Amazon’s Kindle Unlimited (normally USD $10/month), which gives you unlimited downloads from their Unlimited Library. Obviously, this isn’t really as good as it sounds – you are limited to only 10 books at a time, and the “Unlimited” library does NOT have every book. In fact, it has a very poor selection of books, but they do have a handful of gems which suckered Lindsay into trying it out:

The Lonely Planet books were super helpful for us. Lindsay downloaded 10 books right before we entered China (where government censorship blocked our access to Google and Wikipedia, making travel research very difficult), so we had a wealth of information with us at all times. Lindsay was also very sneaky: after downloading the maximum number of books to her Kindle, she switched the e-reader to airplane mode and canceled the free trial. As long as the Kindle wasn’t hooked up to Wifi, she could keep the books as long as she wanted! And while Kindle Unlimited had a 10 book maximum check-out, the Kindle itself could hold many more books than that. Did you know that local libraries now carry e-books? Throughout the trip, Lindsay was able to check-out and download books from New York Public Library as well as the Glen Cove Public Library using her digital sign-ins. She read dozens of novels this year, and didn’t pay for a single one.

One note of advice however: make sure to bring a padded cover for your e-reader! Lindsay didn’t have one, and luckily managed to keep the Kindle safe for 11.5 months of the trip. However, she must have packed the Kindle against something sharp during our Machu Picchu trek, as the screen was permanently damaged. Sadly, it doesn’t look like there is any way to repair it even now that we are home. Sigh – RIP, Kindle.

Don’t let this happen to you!

Nasi Goreng Recipe

When we were in Indonesia, we were introduced to Nasi Goreng, which literally translates to “fried rice”. The Indonesian version, however, was far tastier than anything we had ever experienced with Chinese food take-out in the USA. It soon became our “go-to” dish, especially when we needed to keep to a budget. It was a particularly safe choice when ordering room service at hotels or eating in park cafeterias – even though we had our share terrible pizzas, somehow no one who ever offered n goring ever messed it up. As soon as we got home, Lindsay combed Pinterest, looking for a recipe.

 

Nasi Goreng in Malaysia, Thailand & Indonesia

Turns out, there are hundreds of variations on nasi goring. Lindsay had a few requirements in mind for her ideal recipe: a fried egg, sweet soy sauce, vegetarian, and full of veggies. In the end, she took bits and pieces from a couple different blogs and created her own recipe. She also failed (multiple times!) to cook a sunny side up egg, so in order to keep the yolks runny she had to just flip them and cook them rare. Whether or not it’s technically authentic doesn’t matter – as soon as Igor took a bite, he was flooded with memories of Southeast Asia!

 

INGREDIENTS

Serves 2

SWEET SOY SAUCE

¼ cup brown sugar

¼ cup soy sauce

RICE

2 tbsp EVOO + 2 tbsp EVOO for eggs

1 onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 red chili, minced

1 carrot, grated

¼ cup mung bean sprout

1 scallion, sliced

3 cups day-old rice*

4 eggs

Salt & pepper to taste

GARNISHES

1 tbsp fresh cilantro, chopped

½ cucumber, sliced

½ tomato, cut into wedges

*If you don’t have leftover rice, make the rice the day before and put it in the refrigerator overnight. Trust me – the texture is completely difficult, and allows the rice to be more evenly coated with the sauce. I tried this recipe with rice cooked the same day, and it was too sticky.

INSTRUCTIONS

MAKE THE SWEET SOY SAUCE: Whisk the brown sugar into the soy sauce in a sauce pan over medium heat. Allow mixture to reduce (it will foam from time to time – whisk it and remove temporarily from heat from time to time as needed to keep it from boiling over) until it has the consistency of maple syrup, around 5-10min. Remove from heat and allow to cool (it will thicken even more as it reaches room temperature).

 

Note on the pepper – first time I made this with a red pepper and it was *fiery*. Second time, the shad orange peppers and the result was rather bland.

SAUTÉ THE AROMATICS: Heat half the EVOO in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add onion, garlic and chili, and cook until softened, about 10min.

 

ADD THE RICE & THE SWEET SOY SAUCE: Mix the rice around the pan with a spoon to make sure it gets evenly coated with the soy sauce. Don’t worry if the sauce seems really thick after cooling – it will loosen up as it reheats.

ADD THE VEGGIES: Mix the veggies, season with salt & pepper and allow the mixture to get coated with sauce / heat up for about 2min, then remove from heat. Top with cilantro garnish and divide onto 2 plates. Serve with cucumber & tomato garnish on the side.

 

COOK THE EGGS: The key here is to have runny yolks. If you feel comfortable cooking the eggs sunny side up, go for it! It’s much prettier. Otherwise, coat a clean frying pan with EVOO and crack the eggs into the pan. Turn the heat on to medium, and cook on one side for about 2min, then gently flip the eggs over and cook on the other side for about 1min. Gently press the yolk to check how rare it is. Remove from heat and serve on top of plated rice.

Nasi Goreng – enjoy!

Cruising with Seabourn

CHOOSING A CRUISE

Face it: visiting Antarctica is EXPENSIVE. No way around it – you will NOT find a “shoestring budget” option, especially if you want to set foot on shore. So, once you’ve decided to blow your savings on the trip of a lifetime (like we did!), there are many factors to consider beside the price tag when selecting your ship. (Because let’s face it, flying down to Antarctica doesn’t make sense – flights are canceled more often than not, and it’s not like there are domestic transfers for tourists once you get there.)

The biggest issue for us was, of course, whether or not we would make landfall on Antarctica. We did find a great last-minute deal on a Holland America cruise which had an almost identical itinerary to the one we ended up with. While it was a fraction of the cost, we finally decided it would cost us more in the long run if we went all the way there and decided we would have to save up and come back someday to “do it right.”

The next factor was the length of the itinerary and the cost per day of the entire cruise. In his research, Igor found quite a few smaller, “expedition-style” ships with a similar price tag, however they all started in Ushuaia, Argentina and only lasted 10 days. We figured that if we were going to drop a small fortune on a single trip, we wanted to stretch out the spend as long as possible. We also had the unique situation of taking a year off to travel, and needed to fill in a few weeks of activity before our next destination. Once we are working again, we’ll probably never have the chance to take a three-week long cruise again.

 

Seabourn “Quest” cruiseship to Antarctica

The final consideration was whether or not we would visit the island of South Georgia. Most Antarctic expeditions include a stop at one of the islands off the coast of Argentina, however many itineraries visit the Falkland Islands instead. While both the Falklands and South Georgia lie at a similar latitude, the climates are drastically different as South Georgia is below the Antarctic Convergence and is thus considered a “sub-Antarctic island,” while the Falklands are significantly warmer and much more developed. Since our interests tend to lean more towards wildlife than history, we knew South Georgia was a must and only considered ships that made a stop.

SOUTH AMERICAN PORTS OF CALL

For anyone who has yet to visit Chile, or has only visited Santiago and the wine country, this cruise hits all the must-see locations along the coast. We, on the other hand, have already explored Chilean Patagonia so we didn’t feel the need to rehash all the sights this go-around. But, just to recap:

Valpariso, the port city two hours outside the capital where the cruise embarks, is a cool, artsy place that is definitely worth coming in a day early for. It reminds me of San Francisco: cold & foggy in the morning; steep hills with great vistas of the bay (you can take a hair-raising funicular ride to a viewpoint); and lots of colorful street art (AKA graffiti) that can be really pretty.

 

Visiting Valpariso during a company sales & marketing trip in 2014

Puerto Montt is in the Lake District of Chile, marking the unofficial border of Patagonia. You’ll start to see lots of dramatic, snow-covered mountains, and dozens of beautiful blue lakes. We decided to rent a car for the day, which allowed us to combine two of the ship’s excursions at a quarter of the cost. (Although, we did risk missing the ship’s All Aboard time.)

 

Exploring Chile’s stunning Lake District outside Puerto Montt

We would have liked a little more time on the island of Chiloé. With only 6 hours onshore, we didn’t feel comfortable venturing too far on our own, as a result, we didn’t get a chance to check out the national park. The city is pretty walkable, though, so we were able to get pictures of the iconic palafitos – the colorful stilt houses that line the shore.

 

Colorful and quaint – Chiloé is a very pretty stop in Southern Chile

The first time we sailed through the Chilean Fiords two years ago, we had AMAZING weather, so we knew how spectacular they are. Even when we were in Doubtful Sound in New Zealand early this year, we had to admit that Chile is just bigger and wilder. Sadly, we had rainy weather this time around, so we didn’t get the same effect.

Cruising the Chilean Fiords in 2014 – day-trip from Bernard O’Higgins National Park to Punta Arenas

We arrived in Punta Arenas on Christmas Day, so the normally busy city was practically shut down. A handful of museums were open, and the tourist information center was open as well. For those who wanted to see one of Patagonia’s most scenic parks, the cruise ship actually arranged a *day trip* to Torres del Paine! The price tag is astronomical and there is not enough time for ANY hiking (it is just a fly-by & drive-through) – it would be cheaper to fly back to Chile separately and give yourself time to explore Torres del Paine on foot. But, the excursion was apparently SOLD OUT, so there must be enough people who don’t have the time or strength to make a return visit (this is a *bucket-list* location after all!). Punta Arenas is also a great place to see Magellanic Penguins – a trip to Magdalena Island (which we did two years ago) is worth the rough and bumpy boat ride as you get to walk among the penguins!

 

Exploring Torres del Paine & the Magellanic Penguins during our vacation in 2014

Ushuaia was our first new location of the trip, so we packed our day full of sight-seeing activities. It is possible to do a lot on your own – taxis are pretty reliable (they all use meters) and the parks are only about 20min from town. Weather can be pretty brutal – with wind and snow make it feel even colder than Antarctica! – but we lucked out and had an amazingly beautiful sunny day. We had just enough time for a hike up to the Martial Glacier and a one-way train ride “to the end of the world” in Tierra del Fuego National Park.

 

Ushuaia is a “cruise-town” – if you are going to Antarctica, there’s a 95% chance you’ll have to stop here

Our final port of call in Montevideo was after our two weeks in Antarctica. Since the captain left the Antarctic a day early to avoid bad weather, we arrived in Montevideo a night earlier than scheduled. We had a full 24 hours in Uruguay – plenty of time for an evening stroll around the Mercado del Puerto before dinner on the ship when we first arrived, shopping for toiletries the next morning and an excursion to the wine country in the afternoon.

 

Old-World feel of Montevideo and Uruguayan wineries

The cruise ended in Buenos Aires, and many of our fellow passengers planned a few extra days of sight-seeing after disembarking. We were doing a bit of extra travel around Argentina before moving on to our next country, but we did eventually fly back to Buenos Aires for a few days in the city. The Argentine capital is absolutely gorgeous, and a hop-on/hop-off bus tour was perfect for us. We are also into ballroom dancing, so naturally we visited an authentic milonga to watch the locals dance Argentine Tango.

 

Touring Buenos Aires via open-air bus by day and watching serious tango dancers by night

THE CROSSING

Sailing across the Drake Passage is dreaded price you have to pay in order to visit Antarctica. The 1,000KM stretch of open ocean between Ushuaia and the Antarctica Peninsula is the shortest route to the continent, but it also has the reputation of having the roughest waters in the world. Our original itinerary gave us two full days at sea to cross the Drake Passage, but we were lucky enough to get a break in between two storms and made the trip in only one day. The first 12 hours or so were pretty bumpy, with 10ft swells pitching our front-of-the-boat cabin up and down, but the huge stabilizers on the ship prevented us from suffering too much of the side-to-side motion that usually induces seasickness. By lunchtime the wind died down, the sun came out, and the water flattened to a docile “Drake Lake.”

 

Stock up on Dramamine to get you through the “Drake Shake.” Our cabin was in the very front of the ship – it wasn’t that bad.

ANTARCTIC PENINSULA

We were ridiculously lucky in terms of weather during our time in the Antarctic Peninsula – sunshine every day and almost no wind provided us with postcard-perfect views and flat, mirror-like waters. We spoke to both staff and guests who have been to Antarctica before, and everyone agreed that these were rare, exceptional conditions. Even though the weather was phenomenal, our captain cut our 6-day itinerary short by a day due to poor weather projections on our return journey. However, the five stops that we did make were great, giving us a good variety of landscapes and exposure to each of the three penguin species that nest in the area. The itinerary was pretty light on points of historical significance, but we’re not usually interested in that anyways.

Our first and last landings were in the South Shetland Islands – an archipelago just off the northern tip of the Peninsula. Both were had pretty flat, rocky beaches that were easy to explore on foot. Yankee Harbor had a huge rookery of Gentoo Penguins, while Half Moon Island was home to a colony of Chinstrap Penguins. Because the northern location was relatively warmer and mostly snow-free, these penguins were the furthest along in their mating cycle – both locations had 1-3 week old chicks!

 

More penguins than you can count in the South Shetland Islands!

We had two landings on the actual mainland of Antarctica – Neko Habor and Waterboat Point. These two locations were the furthest south, although still far away from the Antarctic Circle (which we never crossed). As a result, both had a lot more snow and the penguins’ eggs hadn’t hatched yet. Both had large colonies of Gentoo Penguins. Other than that, the topography of these two locations were very different: Neko Harbor had a tall hill we could climb for a nice viewpoint, and the snow was so deep we could only navigate the beach via trenches in the snow (AKA “penguin highways”). Waterboat Point, however, is the location of one of the Chilean research stations, so there is a paved walkway leading through the nesting area. There is also a gift shop and post office!

 

Setting foot the White Continent and sending postcards from the end of the world

Torgersen Island was the only location were we weren’t permitted to get on the shore – the activities were limited to zodiac tours and kayaking excursions. However, this ended up being one of our best days as we encountered a huge variety of sights: this was the only location where we saw Adelié Penguins (who were very active – porpoising in the water, jumping off icebergs and tobogganing on the snowy beach), there was an ice field of particularly beautiful blue icebergs, and we were fortunate enough to be in a zodiac when four Humpback Whales were swimming around the bay, constantly surfacing as they hunted for krill.

 

Zippin’ by Adelié Penguins and Humpback Whales during our zodiac tour

SOUTH GEORGIA

Unfortunately, the weather did not hold out for our visit to South Georgia. Apparently the island only gets 1,000 hours of sunshine PER YEAR, so it’s extremely rare to get a nice day. We arrived 3 hours behind schedule due to a snowstorm we encountered during our crossing of the Southern Ocean. When we finally arrived in the late morning, our zodiac tour to Cooper Bay had to be canceled because the swells made it too dangerous for the guests to board the zodiacs from the side of the ship. Instead, we had a scenic cruising tour of Drygalski Fjord. This was our only chance to see Macaroni Penguins, so even though there are over 5 MILLION of them on the island, we left South Georgia without seeing a single one.

 

So close, yet so far – scenic cruising around South Georgia due to bad weather

Our only landing in South Georgia was at Grytviken – the very first whaling station on the island. We suspect this is the most popular destination on South Georgia itineraries – not only is there a lot of historical significance (it is the site of Ernest Shackleton’s grave and the only museum on the island), but it is located in a very protected bay, making it easier to access even in poor weather. Luckily for us, South Georgia is so jam packed with wildlife, even Grytviken had enough Fur Seals and King Penguins to leave us satisfied.

 

The old whaling station of Grytviken – now home to Antarctic Fur Seals and moulting King Penguins

Our final stop in South Georgia was a zodiac tour along the beach of Salisbury Plain – one of the biggest rookies for King Penguins. It was an amazing sight – around 250,000 penguins blanketed every inch of ground! The Expedition Team was optimistic that a landing *might* be possible, but the captain pulled the plug since the huge swells required the zodiacs to land backwards and created too big of a risk for injury.

 

So. Many. Penguins.

THE EXPEDITION TEAM

The Seabourn Quest had a staff of over a dozen Expedition Team members who provided an educational element to our voyage. Their backgrounds were very diverse – there were several marine biologists (that’s to be expected), but there were also historians and geologists, in addition to some general wilderness experts. The Expedition Team were our guides during our Antarctic landings and did everything from driving the zodiacs, marking walking paths on the shore, and guiding the kayak excursion. They were a wealth of knowledge on all animals we encountered, and were typically stationed on deck for 6 hours per day, helping guests look for whales and seabirds.

Most members of the Expedition Team also held educational lectures during the day, which were also live-broadcast to the TVs in our staterooms and archived for later viewing. We attended about half of all the lectures during the cruise, and they vary widely both in subject material and (sadly) quality level. Many of the presentations were quite impressive – especially those led by one of the scientists with a professional academic background (John Ford’s presentations of Killer Whales and Kirstie Yeager’s presentations on pinnipeds were particularly well done). Even though we are not big history buffs, a lot of the stories we heard from Peter Damisch had just enough information to be entertaining without boring us with too many names and dates. But then, there were also quite a few duds in the mix – one or two of the presenters were constantly all over the place during their PowerPoints, and a few of the others were just dull. The presentations were typically 45min long, and the afternoon presentation had drink service in the auditorium, so it was easier to suffer through.

FOOD & WINE

The biggest difference between visiting Antarctica on a small expedition boat verses a cruise is, of course, the luxury aspect. We had a mindset that “you get what you pay for,” and given the exorbitant price tag, we were expecting A LOT. And you know what? We were not disappointed. Seabourn has a partnership with celebrity chef Thomas Keller (owner of Napa’s French Laundry and New York’s Per Se), so the nightly menu at the main restaurant on the ship always had new, interesting, and alternately weird and daring items to try. We also found out late in the game that Seabourn prides itself on two unique offerings: 1) caviar is available ANYTIME, and 2) the chef can prepare ANYTHING you request given 24 hours’ notice (including frog’s legs, Baked Alaska, Crepes Suzette – you name it!).

Even though we had plenty of opportunity to indulge and over eat during the set meal times, we were surprised by the comparative lack of food on this ship verses other cruises we’ve been on. We are used to having a Lido Deck with a 24hr buffet offering constant temptation. While the Quest does offer 24hr room service and small pastries and sandwiches are available at the coffee bar for 12hrs during the day, there actually times during the cruise where Lindsay *felt hungry*! And yes, our pants were a bit more snug by the end of the trip, but considering it was a 24-day cruise, we really didn’t gain any weight.

 

Artery-clogging breakfast buffet, “stupid-good” daily dinner specials, and caviar-on-demand

The unlimited booze was the luxury that Lindsay enjoyed the most. And this wasn’t watered-down or low-quality selections either. We were incredibly impressed to find out that the *house wines* included many of the brands that Lindsay had previous worked for: Casillero del Diablo, Banfi, Chateau Ste. Michelle, and Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte, just to name a few! Though there were more premium wines available at an additional cost, we were baffled as to WHY as of the guests would find it necessary. Despite the free-flowing alcohol, the atmosphere was anything but a booze-cruise. Most of the bars were empty by midnight (with the exception of New Year’s, which probably quieted down around 1:30AM), and pretty much all the guests were moderate drinkers. Again, with the exception of New Year’s, we NEVER saw anyone visibly intoxicated. And even though we indulged in the occasional lunchtime or afternoon cocktail and drank more over dinner than we normally do at home, we didn’t get a single hangover during the entire cruise.

 

Hats off to the Beverage Director – the wine selection was top notch

ENTERTAINMENT

The choice of evening entertainment was the most disappointing aspect of the cruise. There were a lot of understandable limitations – the small size of the ship meant there was no real stage (just a raised platform big enough for a band next to a dancefloor), the remote location meant new guest performers couldn’t join the ship after Ushuaia (in fact, one of the four scheduled performers missed the ship!), and the rough seas made it dangerous for many physical performances like acrobatics and dance. All the guest performers who were either not singers (i.e. comedian Scott Harris or magician John Lenahan) or were both a singer and a musician (i.e piano player Judy Carmichael and a guitarist Nestor Sandorio) were very good – each performed at least twice and we attended every show.

But the big problem was the lack of variety: there were way too many singers. In addition to another two guest vocalists, there was a cast of TWELVE singers on the ship. We’re not generally into musical reviews, so even though all the performers were talented, it was monotonous for us. (And the guest singers were painfully bad at the between-song chitchat with the audience.) Finally, there were four movie nights, but at least three of them were pure filler as the films they screened in the auditorium were available on demand on the stateroom TV.

FELLOW GUESTS

Given that we are in our early to mid-30s, we were by far the youngest guests on the ship (except for the 2 or 3 teenagers travelling with their parents) and we really stuck out. During the first few days of the cruise there were several cases of mistaken identity, where other guests flat-out asked us if we were staff or brushed us off as “trust-fund babies.” (That’s a direct quote!) A handful of other guests completely ignored us (even when we were seated next to each other at the same table for dinner). By the end of the trip, we had become quite a curiosity to both our fellow guests and members of the crew, so we had lots of people coming up to us, trying to find out what our deal was. Eventually word got around that we had quit our jobs and were travelling the world for a year.

There was *one* other couple on the ship that was our age, but we never got to know each other. You’d think we would have naturally gravitated toward each other, but we could not have been more opposite. Lindsay and Igor were slumming it – travelling with only one piece of carry-on luggage each. With our hippie pants, Lindsay’s lack of make-up and Igor’s raggedly ponytail, we looked like bums. The other couple were chic, fur-wearing Eastern-Europeans, who looked like their parents might run a mob syndicate. We must have looked each other up and down the first week and thought, “Nooooo, this isn’t going to work. We’re not going to be friends,” and never spoke a word to each other.

The demographic of the rest of the guest-list was pretty predictable: old & rich. Some were STUPID rich. We actually overheard one guy claim to be a rare egg collector who wanted to pick up a penguin egg while we were down in Antarctica (rest assured – he did NOT get an opportunity to steal an egg). Another gentleman had his favorite pet dog skinned and turned into a hat after it died. Dude sitting behind us at dinner? He casually slipped his waiter a 100-dollar tip, *even though all staff gratuity is included*. We expected a lot of retired doctors, lawyers and bankers (and there were plenty of those on the ship) – but we’ve been exposed to those kind of people before. This was truly the first time where we encountered people who were so out of touch with reality, that we could feel the divide between ourselves and the “1%”.

With that being said, most of the guests on the ship were totally normal. We’re not overly gregarious when meeting new people, but Seabourn had a few ice-breaker events to help people to know each other: a “block-party” cocktail hour to meet other guests on our floor, and dinner invites hosted by one of the staff members. As a result, we met quite a few friendly, down-to earth people who weren’t obscenely rich (including a pair of mushroom farmers from New Zealand, an outdoorsy-couple from Colorado, and some fellow “Travel-Gnomes-in-Training” who were planning to visit 7 continents in 70 days in 2017).

CONCLUSION

We LOVED this cruise. Even after 24 days on a ship, we didn’t want it to end (we contemplated hiding out in one of the lifeboats and staying on for the next sailing – we could still sneak into the buffet and sleep in the bar, right?). There are very few things (other than a car) that are worth this price tag, but we felt we got what we paid for: a once-in-a-lifetime experience in one of the most remote locations on earth, while pampered in the lap of luxury.

Will we do it again? No. As I said in the beginning – the point was to do it once, and to do it right. We have zero regrets and would recommend this cruise to anyone planning a trip to Antarctica. But we still have a long list of places to see and things to do on our bucket list – it’s time for us to start ticking off some more!

March 29th, 2017

Day 365: New York City

Exactly a year to the day since we flew out of Newark Int’l, we arrived safe and sound at JFK. It’s…over.

Even though we slept the entire flight, red-eyes never leave you totally rested, so today was spent alternately napping, catching up with Igor’s parents (who are THRILLED that we are back and no longer need to anxiously monitor our GPS Spot) and slowly getting our lives back in order (activating Lindsay cell phone, closing hacked bank accounts, unpacking a normal supply of underwear). Yeah, starting today, our lives are not going to be very blog-worthy anymore.

 

Brighton Beach, Brooklyn, NYC. AKA, “Home”

Before we officially sign off from this daily diary, we just wanted to reflect on the amazing, unique and unforgettable journey we’ve had. Surprisingly, it DIDN’T go by all that fast. Almost every single day was a mini-adventure in itself – it feels like we’ve packed a lifetime of experiences into 365 days. We were so blessed that we had the time, money, health and family support to spend a year on the road.

Now that we’re back? Not gonna lie – job hunting is probably not going to be fun. Nor apartment hunting. Nor the myriad other grown-ups responsibilities we’ve been avoiding. BUT…we’re going to do all those things in the GREAEST FUCKING CITY IN THE WORLD. We’ve been around the world, and can very authoritatively say that New York City kicks ass. We’re looking for to the next chapter of our lives, right here. We’ve found our forever home.

March 26th – 28th, 2017

Days 362 – 364: Visiting Dad in Vacaville, CA

We snuck in late last night, when Lindsay’s stepmom, Ouida, had already gone to bed, so we didn’t really get a chance to say hello to everyone until this morning. We spent a good portion of the morning catching up and doing nothing. However, when the afternoon rolled around, my dad put us to WORK.

Four years ago when they came to visit us in Long Island, Lindsay asked her dad if he could help out with some home improvement projects (he’s good at that sort of thing, and we wanted to install a ceiling fan and recessed lighting in our living room). Even though he said yes, we don’t think he really believed we were serious – especially when the project ended up taking 3 full days working from 9AM-6PM each day! We figured we were long overdue for paying them back some blood, sweat and tears, so we were happy to roll up our sleeves and get started.

Well, we must be just THAT GOOD, as we finished my dad’s “weekend project” of spreading mulch in the backyard in about 2hr. That’s it? Really? Wow, we got off really easy! Nothing to do other than relax until Happy Hour & dinnertime!

 

Lindsay & Igor helping her Papito with yard work

 

Peruvian presents! My dad’s head is a little fat for the hat (must be all the Trump propaganda…lol)

 

Birthday dinner out on the town in Vacaville

Don’t ask me who brought it up, but somehow the term “glory hole” was brought up during dinner. All our Millennial-aged friends will be giggling at this point. For all the Baby Boomer family members, allow me to expand your vocabulary:

GLORY HOLE, n. A hole made between bathroom stalls allowing men to engage in anonymous oral sex.

Well, apparently the term also refers to the morning glory-shaped spillway of the Monticello Dam at Lake Berryessa. After discussing the topic at length during dinner, and getting travel tips from our waitress who grew up in the area) we decided to take a short road trip the next day and explore the area. We had beautiful weather and a very scenic drive – good way to spend the afternoon with the ‘rents!

 

French toast for breakfast – it was so good, Lindsay had seconds!

 

My dad: every morning he drags out a basket full of a dozen vitamins that he downs in one gulp (not all girls can do that – takes talent!). When city construction workers come to start work on a new road and sound wall, he peers over the fence, muttering suspiciously.

 

Visiting the Glory Hole at Lake Berryessa

 

Hmmm…very different from the UrbanDictionary.com definition of a glory hole. Still very cool, tho.

 

Visiting the Lake Berryessa Glory Hole – a wholesome, family activity (unless Lindsay is there is act juvenile)

 

On a local recommendation, we stop at the Turtle Rock Bar for supposed “best eggrolls in California”

 

Cool décor, but isn’t that technically illegal?

 

These eggrolls are MONSTERS. But very tasty – the reputation is well deserved

 

Family dinner at home (even the cat joined)

Unfortunately, both Ouida and Papito had to go to work on our last day, but we made the most of our morning together. Lindsay and Igor had a red-eye flight out of Oakland, so we said our final goodbyes in the early evening. Since traffic was flowing pretty smoothly, we made a quick detour to visit Lindsay’s childhood house since neither parent had seen it in years (guys! See pic below!) – a lot has changed in Nor Cal. and no doubt, things will be even more different the next time we are in the Golden State.

 

Final farewell to my Papito as we leave for the airport. Sniff, sniff, bye Daddy! (notgonnacrynotgonnacry)

 

Quick drive-by Lindsay’s hometown and childhood home (they painted it BABY BLUE and ripped out all the bushes! Travesty!)

March 25th, 2017

Day 361: Visiting Friends in Sacramento, CA

It’s the freakin’ weekend! That means our working friends have time for visits, so we headed east to the Sacramento area to see Lindsay’s high school BFF, Susan, and her brood. Susan and her husband Rob have two young boys – both absolutely sweet and adorable! Like all young boys, they alternately run around, scream, cry, play nicely, rough-house, and watch TV very quietly. At one point Lindsay thought she caught Igor Googling the word, “vasectomy,” but he claimed it was just a typo.

In addition to making parenting look super easy, Susan and Rob are also grand masters of home improvement – we were in awe as we toured their lovely home (every room was repainted, the kitchen cabinets were refurbished, and Susan was halfway done staining her stairwell banister) and literally green with envy over their backyard (unlike us, they actually planned out where to plant trees and vegetables, instead of randomly sticking them in the middle of the lawn and letting them die). These guys are REAL grown-ups – hopefully we can be like them someday.

 

Mattie looking for wildlife with a new pair of binoculars (the best available in Laos!)

 

Nickie is a little overwhelmed to meet Lindsay & Igor for the first time right after his nap

 

The hat’s a bit big, but he’ll grow into it. Great visit with old friends!

 

Lindsay hugs the kids goodbye and Nickie stops crying. Trying not to take that one personally… j/k

Our new friends we met in New Zealand, Rachael & Michael, live conveniently halfway between Susan’ house and my dad’s house, so we met up for dinner, drinks and squealing over their teeny Pomeranian puppy (not in that order). Things were going just swimmingly until *someone* in the group made Rachael laugh so hard she fractured a rib. Since she’s recovering from bronchitis and 7mo. preggers, she’s a little too fragile for our knock-knock jokes. Thankfully, she and her baby are just fine – in the meantime, we’re gonna have to schedule another double date in NYC. We have a few months to come up with new material – make sure your insurance premiums are paid up, ’cause we’re gonna SLAY.

 

This puppy seems too small and too cute to be a minion of evil…or maybe that’s what she wants us to think… (j/k she’s totally sweet)

 

Driving to downtown Sacramento for dinner. A car parked near Fremont park has quite a collection of tickets!

 

The Canadian Angel feds us AGAIN! I love her.

March 22nd – 24th, 2017

Days 358 – 360: Visiting Mom in Dublin, CA

Fair warning – the next couple of entries are probably going to be a bit boring for anyone other than the friends and family members included in the posts. While we know there are plenty of fun attractions and amazing parks to visit in California, we’ve already visited a lot of them during previous trips. Our main prerogative this week was to catch up with people we haven’t seen in a long time, relax, and eat and drink as much as we could on someone else’s dime.

When we finally woke up at my mom & Bo’s house, we had a chance to catch up and exchange gifts. Lindsay and Igor brought a warehouse of clothes back from Peru (there may be a few duplicates, please don’t be insulted, guys). While Lindsay would have LOVED to buy a Christmas ornament in each country we visited, it soon became clear that we had neither the money nor space. As an alternative, mom has spent the last 10 months putting together a GORGEOUS collection of ornaments representing the places we’ve visited! Lindsay was ready to grab that little tree and run back to New York with it, she loved it so much! Thank you, Mommy!

We spent the majority of the rest of the day playing games, watching Family Feud, cooking, eating and drinking (except for Bo who was on antibiotics – Lindsay and Igor drank his share of wine for him, ’cause we’re helpful like that).

 

Belated Christmas gifts! Mom has been collecting ornaments from every country we visited (so AWESOME!). Since Mom and Bo were the first ones we visited, they got first pick on hat & sweater colors from our stash of Peruvian winter gear.

Our second full day in California was nice and sunny, so we actually left the house and spent some time in the fresh air. We drove up to Tilden Park for a half-day of easy walking at Inspiration Point and the Nimitz Way, followed by dinner in town.

San Francisco skyline from the lookout in Tilden Park

 

Photo op on a graffiti-covered log (so California quirky)

 

A California Poppy – the official state flower (DON’T pick one! It’s ILLEGAL.)

 

Enjoying an afternoon walk in the botanical garden

 

Walking the Nimitz Way Trail. Confession: we only made it 2 miles before Lindsay had to pee.

 

On the way back, we found a flock of giant wild turkeys! Gobbles!

 

Dinner out with the ‘rents in Dublin

 

Pre-birthday dinner at Esin

For Igor’s Special Day, we asked the birthday boy what he would like to do. “Nothing!” Well that’s easy. We spent a rainy day doing nothing, and it was great! A home-cooked meal was the only picture-worthy activity of the day. My husband is so low-maintenance, I really hit the jackpot. I love you, baby – happy birthday!

 

Igor and Bo fight over the proper way to grill steaks.

 

Mama makes a delicious “Linda Salad” while Lindsay does what she does best

 

Family dinner at home, by the fireplace: the perfect birthday dinner

 

Cake and presents!

 

Happy Birthday, Igor!

March 20th – 21st, 2017

Day 356 – 357: Long Journey from Lima to California

No pictures for two days.

Our flight out of Peru was a JetBlue red-eye to Ft. Lauderdale, and didn’t take off until 11PM, so we had a whole day to kill in Lima. Normal check-out at our hotel, of course, was noon, but we decided to pay for a half-day in order to stay in the room until 6PM. While we would have LOVED to show up at the airport several hours early and just hang out and booze up at the VIP lounge, the drawback to flying a small carrier like JetBlue was that their counter only opens 2hrs. before the flight departs, so checking in early was not an option. ‘No worries,’ we thought, ‘we’ll get a lot of computer work done.’

At 6PM, we had the hotel call us a taxi. The estimated drive time from our hotel in Miraflores to the airport was 40min without traffic, but 1hr was typical. We gave ourselves 2 full hours to get to the airport. THANK GOD. It took us 1 hr. 45min. – traffic was horrible, that’s a given, but our taxi driver wasn’t doing anything to make the trip go faster. He spent the entire ride on a conference call discussing his side business in some shady pharmaceuticals (at least he was using Bluetooth), so he was driving in the slow lane the entre time – never tried to cut people off like our other taxi drivers had. When we finally broke free of the bumper to bumper and were gaining momentum, we started to hear the dreaded, ‘thump, thump, thump,’ of a flat tire. ARE YOU KIDDING ME?! This was the fourth flat tire of the trip! We were starting to panic as our driver pulled over and slowly started to replace the tire with a spare – we contemplated getting out and helping (after all, Igor is such an expert at this – he could be in a NASCAR pit crew!) but we were trapped inside: 4 lanes of fast moving traffic on one side and our driver’s head on the other (Lindsay accidentally smacked him in the head when she tried to open the door and see how it was going). After about 15min, we were freaking out, wondering if we should walk the rest of the way to the airport. Luckily for us, the driver finally finished up and delivered us to the airport about 10min later.

Our flights were pretty uneventful – Igor was able to sleep a little on the Lima-Ft. Lauderdale leg. Lindsay took a motion-sickness pill instead of a sleeping pill, since the side-effect of Dramamine always seemed to be drowsiness, but for once, it didn’t work and she was up practically all night. We went through Immigration and Customs without incident (Igor had Global Entry, so he was done a good 30min before Lindsay) and got on the next leg from Ft. Lauderdale to SFO. When we arrived in California, it was actually RAINING (Igor was surprised – in all the times we have visited, he has never seen it raining in California). We picked up our rental car and drove to Lindsay’s mom’s house in Dublin (about an hour outside the city). It was so great to see my mom and stepdad again, but we were so, so tired. We had just enough energy for lunch, then we went into the guest room to “take a short nap.” We slept for the next 12hrs.

March 18th – 19th, 2017

Days 354 – 355: Return to Lima & The Nazca Lines

It started to rain heavily in the middle of the night, but we didn’t mind as we had finished all our Amazonian sight-seeing during the first two sunny days. Throughout the night, we would occasionally hear loud THUNKS of something landing on the canvas roof of our treehouse – we didn’t hear the noise the first night, so we wondered if the wind and rain was knocking fruit off the branches of the trees? The next morning, we discovered a troop of monkeys climbing in the branches of our tree – we suspect they were sleeping above us all night. Whether the thunks were due to falling fruit or poop, we’re not going to spend too much time thinking about.

Though our return flight to Lima wasn’t until 2PM, we had a long boat ride followed by a long car ride to Iquitos, so we and the other departing guests boarded the longboat after breakfast. Luckily the transfer boat is covered, so the return journey was dry.

 

A troop of monkeys slept in our tree last night. After breakfast, we say farewell to our guide, Martín

 

After two beautiful sunny days it finally starts to rain cats & dogs in the Amazon

When we got back to Lima, we resigned ourselves to another 1+hr. long taxi ride in traffic. Once we checked into our hotel, Lindsay lazily spent over an hour trying to order pizza delivery online. When that proved unsuccessful, she tried to walk to the stupid pizza place, only to find out they were closed for a private event. Along the way, she passed a public bus where a group of young thugs inside were rioting – screaming at passengers, breaking windows, etc. Witnesses on the street started yelling for the “Policía!” who luckily showed up within a metter of minutes. Rather than stay out looking for another pizza place, she returned to the hotel and just ordered us room service (crappy pizza, but at least we won’t get our heads bashed in).

Room service “pizza” and some welcome drinks back at our hotel in Lima

For our last full day in Peru, we booked a day trip to Pisco to see the Nazca Lines – a UNESCO World Heritage site – and the Paracas Marine Reserve. Igor was starting to develop a little cold, but luckily there was nothing strenuous on the itinerary. A private car picked us up from our hotel at 7AM for the long, 3hr. drive down to the province of Pisco, which is about halfway to Nazca, where we would catch our flight. (Pisco has been stealing a lot of tourism business from Nazca since building their airport. Even though it is only currently used for scenic flights and emergency landings for Lima Int’l, the Pisco Airport is HUGE – 13 gates and brand new. I supposed it was constructed with a, “if you build it, they will come,” agenda – it might pan out.)

 

Day-trip to the seaside province of Pisco, about 3hr. south of Lima

 

Igor asks Lindsay to “check the water” because he wants to see how cold it is. When she tries to refuse, he gives her a pouty face and pulls the “I’m sick card.” So, like a good little wife, she goes to the edge of the rocky beach and reaches out to the water just as a wave comes crashing in, soaking her boots up to the ankles. You’re welcome, honey-bunny, now go fuck off.

 

The airport in Pisco is huge (13 gates) but the only flights that go out of here are scenic flights to the Nazca Lines

 

We get our tickets, go through security, and into the massive, empty waiting area. It feels like we’re in a post-apocalyptic zombie movie – where IS everyone?!?

 

We have a large group of Japanese tourists in our plane, all of whom want a pre-flight picture with the captain (check out the dude rockin’ the country-bumpkin suspenders!)

 

Lindsay hums the Indiana Jones theme song as we board the 1-engine plane

 

Flying over the resort-town of Paracas – the Pan-American Highway cuts a line through the desert below

 

Dried up floodplains run out of the fertile valley

The Nazca Lines are a collection of dozens of shapes that were etched into the desert ground by an ancient civilization pre-dating the Incas, around 2,000 years ago. What’s puzzling about these shapes (which resemble birds, animals, plants, etc.) is how and why they were created. The shapes are only properly visible from the sky (you can view some of the shapes from nearby hills and a modern viewing platform, but not all of them) – so how did the original artists design and build the shapes when they couldn’t see what they were doing? There are some hypotheses that the shapes were installed as religious offerings to the heavens (supposedly God would have a good view of the shapes from the clouds!).

Sadly, the Nazca Lines have become victims of their own success, and a lot of damage has been done in recent decades as a result of tourism. Many of the figures have tire tracks and even roads cutting right through the lines, making them hard to identify, and there is plenty of graffiti on nearby hills (Greg wuz here!). Even so, the figures were pretty cool to see in person – there’s nothing in the world quite like them (maybe crop circles would be close). The flight itself was also really fun – in order to give the guests good views, the pilots would bank REALLY HARD and fly at a 45⁰ angle (once for the right side of the plane, then swing around again for the left side of the plane). Surprisingly, even though this was a much bumpier ride than our hair-raising flight to Lukla in Nepal, Lindsay did not cry at all (it was the landing on a cliff that scared her the first time – today she wasn’t afraid that the pilots would fuck-up landing on a wide, flat desert).

 

The Whale and the Astronaut

 

The Monkey and the Dog

 

The Hummingbird and the Condor

 

The Spider and the Crane

 

A viewing tower on the ground is surrounded by a Lizard, the Tree and the Hands, and the final figure we see on our tour is the Parrot

After our flight, we made a quick stop in the resort town of Paracas for lunch (unfortunately, overpriced and not very tasty) and picked up a local, English-speaking guide for our drive-through tour of the Paracas National Reserve – a park along the coast with really dramatic landscape scenery. By 4PM, we were back on the road heading north to Lima – our driver dropped us off at our hotel at 7PM. It was a 12hr day of touring – our very last international activity! Next stop: the USA!

 

Seafood Fried Rice at a waterfront restaurant in Paracas

 

Beach goers and funky art in Paracas

 

Paracas National Reserve – known for dramatic coastal scenery

 

Our guide points out fossilized seashells in the ground on the Fossil Walking Trail

 

The remains of La Catedral – a rock formation off the coast that used to have an arch connecting it to the cliffs that was destroyed in the 2007 earthquake

 

Lindsay and Igor admire the vast, tropical desert of Paracas

 

Desert meets ocean in Paracas

 

Stunning red sand beaches in Paracas – the colors are amazing!

March 17th, 2017

Day 353: The Amazon – Iquitos Day 2

Plan officially back-fired today: instead of making us want to go home, the northern Amazon just shot Peru into our Top 5 list of countries. Today was AMAZING. Started out pleasant and peaceful – even though the electricity was shut off around midnight (so we didn’t have our ceiling fan all night long), at least we were able to fall asleep in comfort. The evening breezes high up in the treetops kept us cool at night and the fan turned on again around 6AM. We were woken up naturally by the incoming sunlight (no loud neighbors, no alarm clocks) and took our time coming down for breakfast. It was a LONG walk from our room to the lodge, so each time we left, we had to make sure we didn’t forget anything!

  

Morning trek from our secluded treehouse, across the suspension bridge, down the stairs, over the boardwalk, to the thatched-roofed lodge for breakfast

So, we had already seen dolphins, piranha and a caiman the day before. “Anything else you guys want to see?” our guide, Martín, asked us. “Sloths and monkeys!” we replied. So after breakfast, we hopped into a longboat and cruised down the river and into the floodplains, on the lookout for primates.

Martín was a GOOD guide. Literally the first animal he found within 15min of our tour was a small, female Three Toed Sloth, climbing in a tree. Another tour boat (full to the brim with tourists! Probably a cruise-ship excursion) was right behind us and took the prime location in front of the branch to take pictures. We ended up underneath branch, with a shitty backlit view of the sloth, so we waited patiently for them to leave so we could get a better shot.

The moment the other tour boat took off down the river and was out of sight, Martín turned to us and asked, “Do you want to hold it?” “YES,” Lindsay replied without missing a beat. Then, our boat driver Fernando climbed barefoot into the tree and chased down the sloth (obviously the poor thing couldn’t get away fast enough!), grabbed her by the nape like a kitten and plucked her out of the tree. While sloths are not aggressive, they do have very long, sharp and power claws, so we had to hold her from the back.

Guys, she was SO SWEET! Martín told us the sloth was female (males have distinctive markings on their back) and pretty young (independent from her mother, but not sexually mature yet). Probably freaking out, but so adorable – slowly reaching out towards us and our camera with her long arms. She had this serene, goofy smile on her face and would play with her feet. It was surreal and magical. After cooing over her for about 5min, we handed her back to Fernando who put her back in the tree. She immediately climbed away as fast as she could (so like, 5MPH instead of 2MPH) – run away, run away little sloth!

 

Our guide finds a Three Toed Sloth in a tree near the river – while we are taking pictures, another tour group stops nearby

 

Our driver climbs into the tree and plucks the baby sloth from the branch!

 

Baby sloth coming in for a close-up!

 

OMG, look at that face! Igor is so excited to be holding a wild, baby sloth!

 

Watch out for those claws – she may be slow, but she’s also very strong!

We spend this rest of the morning looking for more animals – we found a troop of Titi Monkeys and some water fowl, but nothing could top holding a sloth. We returned to the lodge for another tasty lunch and headed back on the river in the late afternoon. This time we headed towards the fast-moving water of the main river. Martín and Fernando took us to a cove off the channel where we found dozens of Giant Waterlilies, then back to the fast-moving “brown water” so that we could jump in and swim with the dolphins (don’t worry guys – caiman and piranha only like current-less, “black water”).

 

Kicking back for a leisure boat ride through the jungle

 

Our guide finds a small troop of Titi Monkeys

 

A Jacana (Jesus-bird) seems to walk on water – actually walking on the thick vegetation floating on the water

 

Pretty jungle flowers

 

Vast, open wetlands in the Amazon – a Giant White Heron in the distance

 

We enter a peaceful cove in search of Giant Waterlilies

 

Victoria Amazonica – Giant Waterlilies of the Amazon

 

These plants can grow to 3M in diameter! We test their strength – big enough to hold two full water bottles!

 

Lindsay swimming with dolphins in the Marañón River in the Amazon Jungle

 

Igor jumps into the water and chases the Pink Dolphins – our guide has to paddle after him!

 

Golden Hour on the Marañón River in the Amazon Jungle

 

Dusk, twilight, and evening in the Amazon

That night we had yet another fabulous dinner (which Lindsay could actually eat – yay!), enjoyed in the bug-free lodge. Martín offered to take us out on another night-time boat ride, but there was nothing left on our bucket-list of things to see and the sky was too cloudy to go star-gazing, so we spent the extra hour paying cards and enjoying the ceiling fans.

 

Lindsay is finally well enough to fully indulge in the lodge’s decadent cooking – stuffed avocado, chicken & yucca fries, and cherry-vanilla ice cream shake!