October 16th, 2016

Day 201: Kathmandu – Day 1

We were packed and ready to go before breakfast this morning. After shoveling down our last Chinese fried eggs and toast, we sprinted out of the hotel and into the minivan, making a beeline for the Lhasa Airport. We gave Samdup our postcards to mail, and our unused bottles of oxygen, hoping he could find a use for them. When we got to the airport, we gave each gentleman a well-deserved tip and said our farewells – all my bitching about China aside, we had a FANTASTIC tour with Tibetan Highland Tours. Tibet was definitely the “peak” of our China trip and we are so grateful we had the chance to visit it when we did, interact with the local people and witness their vibrant and spiritual culture. It breaks our heart that this region is changing so quickly.

Though our Air China flight was delayed by an hour (Lindsay thought she might start to hyperventilate at the thought we might be suck here another day), we finally took off! After a scenic flight over the Himalayas (hey! I think that’s Everest!) we landed in Kathmandu. Even though we only flew West for about 600KM, we gained 2hrs and 15min, since the entire country of China is on one time zone (and a weird one at that – what’s with the extra 15min?). After we landed, we made our way through Immigration where we paid our USD $40pp for our 30-day travel visas (luckily, Igor had brought a collection of pre-cut passport photos – you need them for the Nepal visa!). We quickly collected our checked bag and met up with Reginald, from Wind Horse Tours at the Arrivals exit. WE FINALLY MADE IT TO NEPAL!

  

Flying over the Himalayas – we can’t be positive, but we’re pretty sure that solitary peak is Everest

Reginald (who has a *fabulous* game-show quality British accent, BTW) dropped us off at our hotel – the Royal Penguin in Thamel – and made plans to meet us the next day to introduce our guide and finalize our tour payment. We had the rest of the afternoon at leisure, so we decided to start repacking our bags in preparation for our upcoming 15-day trek to the Nepali Everest base camp. As there are no roads on the trail, EVERYTHING from food to toilet paper is brought in on foot or yak, so we needed to stock up on essentials or risk paying an arm and a leg in the mountains.

We were tickled to discover that the Royal Penguin had upgraded us from a Standard King to a Junior Suite! The hotel has a bizarre, uber-modern interior design, but it’s comfortable, the staff are super friendly, and there’s even 24-hour free breakfast! We took our time unwinding in the room before heading out into the street to run our errands. Unlike our many failures in China, we found navigating Kathmandu to be a *breeze*. While there are no Western-style, Rite Aid-like pharmacy shops, the neighborhood has tons of pharmacy stalls. We went up to the first one and were able to buy almost everything on our list: cold medicine, Vitamin-C tablets, altitude-sickness pills, aspirin, hand sanitizer, blister pads, and anti-diarrheal medication. True, none of the familiar name brands were available, but the active ingredients were the same. No more herbal voodoo for us, thanks! We quickly found other elusive necessities – replacement camera equipment, quick-drying socks and sparkling wine! – and headed back to the hotel, completely triumphant. Nepal…you *get* it.

 

Granted – the décor is strange, but in a luxuriously quirky way. This suite feels like *heaven* after some of the bare-bones lodging we’re had in China.

 

The Thamel neighborhood in Kathmandu is a traveler’s paradise – we find a camera store in no time that sells replacement batteries, GoPro accessories and camera straps

 

In under two hours, we haul back a huge pile of toiletries, medication and other items we had been missing in China

While we have every intention of soaking in the Nepalese cuisine and culture over the next three weeks, we decided to indulge in the international offerings the capital city has to offer. We found an Italian restaurant that could have easily been located in the East Village, and later vegged out to HBO until late in the evening.

 

While we love Indian food and are sure to love Nepali food, we know we will soon be eating dal bhat for 15 days straight, so we take advantage of the enormous selection of international cuisine in Kathmandu and treat ourselves to a delicious Italian dinner at La Dolce Vita.

 

LOVELOVELOVE this hotel! Not only to they *enforce* their “No Smoking” policy, but they have actually designated the hallways as “Low Voice Zones”! Oh, I think we are going to sleep well tonight…no earplugs necessary! We pop open a bottle of bubbly to celebrate our escape from China, and the start of a whole new stage in our travels – the Indian sub-Continent!

May 19th, 20th & 21st, 2016

Days 51, 52 & 53: The Great Barrier Reef

Pro Dive picked us up from our hotel bright and early for our big trip to the Great Barrier Reef. It actually takes about 3hrs by boat to get to the reef from Cairns, so we had time for brekky and some leisure time on the top deck before our first dive in the ocean. The boat was pretty big: 3 levels, 8 bathrooms with showers, with 37 passengers and 7 crew. In addition to all the students going for our PADI Open Water certification, about half the passengers were already certified, along for a regular scuba trip.

20160519_063819 20160519_064000

Bright-eyed and bushy tailed for our 6AM boat departure from Cairns to the Great Barrier Reef!

Igor breakfast 20160519_070623 - Copy

Brekky, a cup of coffee, and our private cabin – things are starting out right!

Our first day on the reef, we had 2 training dives – where we had to prove we could complete the skills we learned in the pool in the ocean – as well as a pleasure snorkel. Funny thing, we saw as many fish & a turtle snorkeling as we ever did scuba diving – but then it’s not the quantity of what you see that matters, it’s the perspective.

We toasted our first successful dive over a delicious Indian-food dinner and some BYO bubbles, while all the certified divers jumped into the water for their first night dive. While we didn’t see a single shark during the day, 3 sharks appeared in the evening, circling the boat!

20160519_135504

Our first dive site on the Great Barrier Reef

dinner Igor dinner Drinking

A really yummy curry dinner, with a beautiful sunset. Keepin’ it classy with some cheap bubbles in coffee mugs on deck.

We were in the water for more training before breakfast the next morning, so that we would be on track to get our PADI certification before lunch. Round of applause – we did it! That afternoon, Igor and Lindsay took off underwater without an instructor for the first time! Of course, we’re still not experts at reading our compass and had the surface to find our way back to the boat, but we made it back to the boat in one piece!

Igor suit DSCN2379

Got our stinger-suits on! Jellies? No problem! 

DSCN2381 DSCN2383

After reviewing the map of the reef and dive plan from our Dive Master, we jumped into the water to explore

DSCN2385 - Copy DSCN2392

30 feet underwater, and feeling great!

DSCN2420 DSCN2403 - Copy

The time goes by so quickly – we can’t wait for our next dive!

After dinner the second night, we braved the circling sharks and jumped in the water for our guided night dive. The reef was really eerie in the dark – brimming with life and activity during the day, it’s so strange to swim past it with barely any fish around. We saw plenty of sharks – including a guitar shark! – but weren’t scared when we found out they don’t like the light and all you have to do is shine your flashlight in their face to make them swim away. We also went in search of Brian – a 140-year-old turtle who lives in the Fylnn Reef – unfortunately he was hiding in the back of his little cave, so only those divers with really good maneuverability were able to stick their heads in far enough to see him. However, Lindsay did see another (nameless) turtle swim past, so that was cool.

DSC09010 - Copy DSC09011 - Copy

Disappearing under the dark waters – a bit freaky!

We returned to the boat exhilarated, and after a quick shower (3min max! Gotta share the hot water with everyone!), we went back up top to celebrate. On the top deck, we discovered a new character had joined the boat – Lebron the bird! The skipper recognized the friendly bird who is accustomed to visiting dive boats on the reef, and coaxed him down to mingle with the tourists.

DSC09032 - Copy DSC09039

Igor and Tessa making friends with Lebron

DSC09043 lebraun

This guy was a little attention seeker! We actually had trouble getting him to perch on the boat instead of a person!

For our last morning on the reef, Igor wanted to catch some extra Zs, so he opted to snorkel our 6AM dive, while Lindsay paired up with one of our classmates. After watching us having fun from above, he decided to strap on the tank for our last two dives in the reef, where we found THE REAL NEMO.

DSCN2394 DSCN2396

Igor doing his thing – trying to make friends with the animals. The Spotted Sweetlips wasn’t having it.

Nemo 1 DSCN2388

NEMO, Marlin & even the deceased Coral! (photo credit to Kerri B, whose camera worked at 18 meters, unlike our which crapped out at 10 meters) Also, do I spot a few DORYS on the right side of this reef?!? Please say yes, I was looking for her the whole time and kept missing her.

As we sadly said good bye to the reef and made our way back to Cairns, the bad weather that had been threatening us and ruining our visibility all week finally let it rip. That evening we braved the storm to meet up with our classmates and Pro Dive instructors for a casual dinner & drinks at the Bavarian Beer Garden where we had one last chance to reminisce about our experience at the reef and bid each other farewell.

Scuba Class 2

PADI Open Water Certified, bitches!

May 17th & 18th, 2016

Days 49 & 50: Cairns – Learning to Scuba

When planning this trip, we decided that the only way to see the Great Barrier Reef properly was to learn to scuba dive. We looked into getting certified in the USA or doing the course material prior, but honestly if was far more affordable to book a 5-Day Learn to Scuba course in Cairns, which included 2 days classroom & pool training, and 3 days living aboard a boat in the Reef (USD$700pp), rather than pay half in the USA and still have to shell out for rentals / excursion fees in Australia.

So our first two days in Cairns were spent at the Pro Dive learning facility (they picked us up from our hotel each morning, and gave us the option to buy or bring lunch), in a class of 11 students for the coursework, and 7 students for the pool session. We went over the exercises at a comfortable pace, and were feeling pretty confident about jumping into the ocean.

Igor Prodive DSCN2376

2 days of pool exercises & classroom quizzes – we are ready for the reef!

The first night of the course, we followed the recommendation to attend a presentation by Reef Teach, were Gareth, a real marine biologist, took us through a very entertaining slide show on how to identify coral & fish, and where to look in increase our chance of seeing turtles and sharks. We are really d we did it – not only was Gareth very funny, his advice for how to identify fish (forget color! Describe shape, size & behavior to narrow it down) helped us get a lot more out of our diving experience. Basically, it’s all about sex – coral and fish have lots of sex, and if they are not eating they are trying to have sex. If there are no members of the opposite gender around? No problem – many will give themselves a sex change (*cough*clownfishfromFindingNemo*cough*). Others, like the flatworm, will sword-fight with their willies, and the looser has to be the girl. #penisfencing

reef-teach-logo-vertical_400x400

We were too engrossed in the presentation to take pictures! But we highly recommend the evening talk at Reef Teach before a scuba/snorkel to the Great Barrier Reef

The night before our trip to the reef, we had to take it easy, as we had a 5AM wake-up call in the morning. But we did get a chance to wander around downtown, enjoy the sunset on the boardwalk & the hordes of flying foxes that live in the area – land & sea, this place is bursting with animals!

20160517_173751 DSC08976

Sunset in Cairns after a long day of learning! Heading to the esplanade for a wee walk before finding some dinner

DSC08969-p

Cairns Esplanade

bats DSC08984

A colony of Flying Foxes live in the trees outside the Cairns Library, and at sunset you can see hundreds flying through the sky! Like a scene from a horror movie!

May 16th, 2016

Day 48: Return to Alice Springs

Today was a travel day, as we had almost 500KM / 5hrs between us and the Alice Springs Airport. We left the campground nice and early so we could have time to stop along the way – the road to/from Alice Springs & Uluru surprising has a lot of attractions, evenly spaced out, so the drive was rather pleasant.

DSC08884 DSC08885

First stop was the Mt. Ebenezer Roadhouse, where Lindsay was reminded that she hadn’t seen any camels yet. But there was a cool art gallery with some really good paintings by Aboriginal artists (even Igor said they were good, and being a painter himself he’s a tough critic).

DSC08882 DSC08887

Igor set a price limit on refreshments – Lindsay was so excited to find an iced coffee on discount!

DSC08889 DSC08892

An hour down the road we stopped at our second roadhouse, which had a flock of emus

DSC08909 DSC08924

Normally they sell feed to tourists for $2/bag and were all for it, but they were sold out! Igor apologized to the birds since he had nothing to give them.

DSC08965 DSC08926

Another hour down the road, Lindsay pulled over at Stuart’s Well WHICH HAS A CAMEL FARM! They race their camels at the Alice Springs Camel Cup every year, and they trophy display proves they know what they are doing. Too bad we’ll miss it.

DSC08936 DSC08937

Igor just wants to feed animals! He gave our last clementine to a camel

DSC08938 DSC08940

Poor Sparky just wanted some grass, so Lindsay gave her a little treat

DSC08941 DSC08955

We decided to feed Bruce – the big breeding male – some grass as well

DSC08952 DSC08964

So glad got to see some camels before we left the Outback!

When we got to Alice Springs, we made a quick stop at the K-Mart to see if we could return the small tent (yes! AUD$19 back in the budget!), then boarded our flight to Cairns off into the sunset.

Alice Springs qantas sunset

Hi/Bye Alice Springs! Wish we had a little more time to explore

20160516_180311

A full dinner on a 3hr flight? I feel like we’re back in the 1990s! Delicious frittata & cake, Qantas!

May 15th, 2016

Day 47: Uluru

So, Lindsay has wanted to see Ayer’s Rock ever since she was a little girl – one of her favorite cartoon video tapes was called Noozles, about two magical koalas who claimed there was a magical portal at Ayer’s Rock between our world and Koalawalla Land. Not that she was expecting any flying magical koalas or talking kangaroos or thing, but it’s still place that’s had a certain allure in her mind for a few decades.

nozzles

Childhood influences – you never now where they will send you as an adult

We set the alarm for 5:30AM, so we could drive into the park and claim a good spot at the sunrise viewing area before dawn. Once again, we were not the only ones interested in seeing a rock at sunrise (Moeraki Boulders, anyone?) – there were about 4 tour buses, and a parking lot full of cars who beat us there. Rather than fight for a spot on the raised platform, we decided to endure a few trees in our pictures in order to enjoy the sunrise in peace on the lower path.

DSC08562 DSC08567-p

Snapping Instagram pics during sunrise at Uluru

After the sunrise, we headed straight for the Base Walk so that we could enjoy every side of Uluru.

DSC08579 DSC08594

Our walk around the base started in Uluru’s shadow – we were so glad to turn the corner and get into the morning sun

DSC08600 DSC08647 DSC08653

Artsy photos of the many faces of Uluru

DSC08619 DSC08689

There are many parts of Uluru that are sacred – which the Aboriginal people believe should only be viewed in person, never as a replica (picture) – Igor resisted taking photos of those sites. All rock art was fair game though!

DSC08680 DSC08678

Taking a short breather hade to admire the rock art 

DSC08690

The Aboriginal people can read stories from the face of Uluru, almost like it were a book. This cave tells the story of three old men who were killed in a fire from a hostile neighboring tribe – their images still haunt the cave as a reminder.

DSC08620-DSC0836

Uluru in the full morning sun

Once we were done walking around Uluru, the issue of whether or not to climb *up* it came up. The Aboriginal people indigenous to the Uluru area consider climbing Uluru to be a sacred rite of passage, and they find it offensive when tourists climb up it. Also, it is incredibly steep and dangerous, so both the Aboriginals and Australian park rangers don’t like it when people get hurt / die / need to be rescued from the climb. Lindsay decided not to climb the rock, out of respect for the Aboriginal people’s request. Igor believes, however, that no culture can “own” a natural wonder and decided that since the rock was technically open for climbers it was fair game. We have agreed to disagree on recommending the climb to others. However, we were informed by a park ranger the climb will be officially banned as of 2019, per the will of the Uluru council members (66% Aboriginal controlled), so keep that in mind.

DSC08801 DSC08747

Steep climb to the top, where a compass points to all the sights

DSC08727 DSC08750

There’s rainwater atop the rock! Igor could see The Olgas in the distance

DSC08763 DSC08726

Only one pair of boots on the top of Uluru

DSC08728-p

Beautiful texture of the rock

DSC08749-59

Panorama from the top

DSC08723-p DSC08794

It’s a perilous climb down – Lindsay was watching Igor nervously from the parking lot. Many tourists slip and fall, which is the main reason for closing the walk.

We took a long break from the sun, heat & flies in the middle of the afternoon, and checked out the Aboriginal Culture Center, which had a lot of information about the history of Uluru (both geological & political), as well as conservation concerns and wildlife in the area. (No pictures allowed though, as it was another sensitive area)

We still had over an hour until sunset, we so decided to return to Kata Tjunta and hike the last walk that we missed the day before – the Gorge Walk.

DSC08814 DSC08831

The Gorge Walk at Kata Tjuta

DSC08830 DSC08815-p

Beautiful, late afternoon walk in the park

We returned to Uluru with plenty of time to catch all the variations of the rock during sunset and dusk. The parking lot cleared out once it got dark, so we had Uluru to ourselves for a final starry photo-shoot. It may be a big rock in the middle of nowhere, but this is seriously worth the trip.

Uluru four faces

The four final faces of Uluru

May 14th, 2016

Day 44: The Outback – Day 3, Kings Canyon / Kata Tjuta

So sleeping in the back of the SUV was ridiculously comfortable! We actually slept in later than we planned, as we figured an alarm wouldn’t be necessary. We were a little worried as the King’s Canyon walking info recommended anyone planning to do the Rim Walk finish no later than 11AM. As we were starting the 3.5hr walk at 8:15AM, we were pushing it a bit. But onward, and upward!

DSC08383 DSC08384

Pathway to the North Rim of King’s Canyon

So, King’s Canyon has been called “Australia’s Grand Canyon”. As someone who has actually been to the Grand Canyon (check my FB cover photo) and walked the South Rim down and back up, I can tell you this is NOT anything like the Grand Canyon. First of all, it’s not a canyon it’s a gorge – you don’t walk down into it, you walk up and around it. And the 3.5hr time estimate? Very generous. We were done with the Rim Walk in 2hrs, and we were keeping pace with older tourists and families with kids.

DSC08382 DSC08385

Cake walk. Emergency phones not needed (granted, it’s winter right now)

Comparisons aside, it was a very nice morning walk, if a bit crowded (as everyone is starting the hike at the same time, per the park’s recommendations). The full Rim Walk starts from the North Rim, and the entrance is shut down at 9AM to prevent tourists from attempting the walk in the hottest part of the day. The South Rim is open an additional 2 hours, but there is a gate halfway through the walk that only opens from the North side, making it a half-walk. Due to this, the South Rim emptied out by the time we reached it, giving us some nice vistas to ourselves (well, we had to share the views with the bush flies, who started to get really active as we were coming off the canyon).

DSC08388 DSC08393

Starting off the morning with a walk around the canyon

DSC08408 DSC08397

View from the canyon edge

DSC08411 DSC08413 DSC08428

The Garden of Eden – a pretty little oasis in the canyon

DSC08429 DSC08430

Checking out the view of “The Lost City” – beehive-shaped domes

DSC08409 DSC08435

The crowd of tourists on the South Rim – they all had to turn back halfway through the walk, so the cliff was empty by the time we got there

DSC08436 DSC08444

View from the South Rim – done with the walk in record time!

Once we were done with King’s Canyon, we started heading for the Big One – Uluru, AKA Ayers Rock. We stopped along the road at Curtain Springs – a wayside inn where we picked up a lovely hat net for Lindsay (comfort over fashion – I have no shame in looking like a dork).

DSC08445 DSC08467

I’ll wear ANYTHING to keep the flies away! They don’t bite, they just love to fly in your ears

DSC08456 DSC08451

A brief stop in Curtain Springs – a little oasis in the deadly desert

We arrived at the park a few hours before sunset, and realized we had time for a short walk. We decided to leave the grandeur of Uluru for tomorrow, and instead visited Kata Tjuta (AKA, The Olgas) where we hiked the Valley of the Winds walk up to the second vista point, and then drove over to the sunset viewing area for a spectacular view.

DSC08461 DSC08495

Exploring the trails of Kata Tjuta, respectfully

DSC08493 DSC08494

Gotta stay hydrated while hiking Kata Tjuta

DSC08462 DSC08468 DSC08543 bugoffflies

Thwarting the bushflies – go humans!

DSC08514 DSC08542

Refusing to let the flies ruin another sunset

DSC08528-p

Kata Tjuta AKA The Olgas at sunset

DSC08551

The sun has fallen from the horizon

Fully satisfied with our day in the Outback, we headed to Yulara – a corporate owned village whose sole purpose is to support tourism to Uluru – to check-in to the campgrounds and buy some snacks & wine for dinner. As it was a Saturday, the campground was completely booked, they offered us the overflow parking lot for only AUD$10. As we were planning to sleep in the car again, we were keen for the surprise discount, and felt better about shelling out AUD$30 for a bottle of sparkling wine (at least is was good quality).

DSC08552 DSC08554

Car picnic! Keeping it classy in the Outback

May 13th, 2016

Day 45: The Outback – Day 2, West MacDonnell Ranges & Mereenie Loop

We woke up pretty tired, as we have a bit of a rough night camping. First of all, Lindsay insisted on buying the 2-person tent the day before, rather than spending an extra AUD$15 for a 3-person tent: big mistake. While the dimensions on the box were accurate in the sense that the air mattress fit while deflated, once inflated our heads and feet didn’t fit inside the tent without hitting the sides of the tent without getting soaked in condensation. Oops. There also seemed to be a movie marathon going on in the staff quarters, which made it hard to fall asleep at the early hour of 8:30PM.

Oh well, it’s a new day, with more things to see! The rest of the Red Center Way drive through the MacDonnell Ranges had recommended stops about every 30min, which kept us very busy all morning.

DSC08244 DSC08245

Driving into the Red Center – unforgiving terrain, as we saw from the multitude of broken & rusting vehicles on the side of the road. We brought 5 gallons of water as a precaution.

DSC08254 DSC08256

First stop of the day: Ellery Creek Big Hole. A great spot for swimming in the heat of the day, but the desert was still freezing when we stopped by, so no dip for us.

DSC08258-p DSC08271

Next stop: Serpentine Gorge. A steep climb lead to a view of a few puddles at the bottom of a deep gorge – guess you can’t be picky about your water sources in the desert.

DSC08267 DSC08264

View from the top of Serpentine Gorge

DSC08273-p DSC08274

Igor found another dead tree at the top of the gorge to admire

DSC08280 DSC08283

Further down the road, our next attraction is the Ochre Pits – multicolored rock walls that the Aboriginal people used to create body paint for traditional ceremonies

DSC08284 DSC08285 

Exploring the Ochre Pits for a few minutes until the bush flies chased us away

DSC08299 DSC08294-p

A water-filled oasis at Ormiston Gorge

DSC08292 DSC08296-p

The day was heating up fast! The water is actually freezing, but will look pretty tempting by the afternoon.

Running out of gas is really dangerous in the Outback, so we were adamant that we would fill up every opportunity possible. We made an obligatory stop at the Glen Helen Resort, which had one circa 1970s gas pump (the last for 200+KM), and purchased our permit for the Mereenie Loop road, which crosses Aboriginal land.

DSC08303 DSC08304

The lone gas pump at Glen Helen

DSC08324 DSC08326

Heading out into the wilderness – nothing but snakes waiting for us!

DSC08330 DSC08329

Last rest stop on paved road – the Gosses Bluff Crater, created by an asteroid impact 150 million years ago

For anyone interested in driving the Mereenie Loop to Kings Canyon, 4WD is a MUST – the majority of the is not paved, and the “gravel” road is not maintained at all. We literally passed a muffler on the of the road, which must have fallen out of someone’s car due to the extreme rattling. There is only one rest stop along the entire 100KM track, which we couldn’t enjoy due toll the bush flies. If we could do it again, we wouldn’t bother going out of our way for the Mereenie Loop. The only wildlife we saw were horses, a well-endowed donkey, and a few kipara (bush turkeys).

DSC08336 DSC08344

Igor made me pull over to take a picture of the donkey’s schlong. That’s what I get for travelling with a boy.

DSC08341 DSC08343

The Mereenie Loop: 100KM of bumpy dirt road – 4×4 is a must

DSC08347 DSC08348

So happy to reach the end of the loop, and paved roads at King’s Canyon

We also had a very upsetting experience once we got off the Mereenie Loop back on to paved road. After hours of zero wildlife, and gleeful that we could once again drive at 110KMPH, we relaxed a bit too much and didn’t notice two kipara eating some bush melons on the side of the road. One of the startled kipara flew into the road as we drove by and got clipped by our rear view mirror – our first (and hopefully last) roadkill. Luckily the bird was too small to damage the car, but it left Lindsay shaken up, and drove poor animal-loving Igor into a sad depression.

DSC08342 DSC08366

The delicious bush-melon & our Rav4 – the downfall of the poor bush-turkey

Once we got to Kings Canyon, we checked-in to the camp ground and decided to simply inflate our mattress in the back of the SUV and sleep in the car. Good thing too, because dingos and wild dogs were roaming all over the campground (We can totally see how the infamous case of Azaria Chamberlain happened – who in their right mind would leave a baby laying around when wild dogs are bold enough to steal food out of the back hatch of people’s car? Common sense, people). We tried to enjoy the sunset over King’s Canyon, but once again the bushflies chased us away.

DSC08352 DSC08367

Wild dogs & dingos in the area! Lock up your food & babies!

DSC08362 DSC08357

A large gathering for the King’s Canyon sunset – but Lindsay couldn’t handle the flies

DSC08359 DSC08365

We snapped a picture as quickly as we could, and ran away from the flies

For dinner, we found out the resort next door had just reopened their restaurant, Carmichaels, which had kangaroos & camel on the menu. Unfortunately, the opening wasn’t running that smoothly yet, and the camel was unavailable (probably a good thing) – still tasty food though. We raised a somber glass to the passing of the poor kipara (who we have now named “Dodo”).

DSC08368 Dodo

A wake for Dodo – the Australian Bustard (AKA bush-turkey)

Before heading to bed, we returned to the sunset viewing platform (now bushfly-free), to enjoy the starry sky in solitude.

DSC08374 DSC08378

Finding peace in the Outback

May 12th, 2016

Day 44: The Outback – Day 1, West MacDonnell Ranges

The Outback: the quintessential Aussie frontier, where you can drive for days without seeing another soul, a desert so massive and empty that one could set off an atomic bomb and no one would notice for years. We’ve been looking forward to our exploration of the Real Australia for weeks! We flew into Alice Springs and picked up our 4WD rental car and planned our route. While we were originally planning to copy the itinerary of the various camping tours in the area, Igor convinced Lindsay we had enough time to explore the MacDonnell Ranges and get to Kings Canyon via the Mereenie Loop if we left Alice Springs that afternoon. After inquiring about rental camping gear at the Alice Springs Info Center without any luck, one tour operator suggested we buy something cheap at K-Mart – brilliant idea! AUD$90 later we were fully equipped for our Outback Adventure.

Air Pump Matress Sleeping Bags Tent

Cheapy, cheap – that’s how we roll, baby! Igor even sprang for two $1 plastic wine glasses.

First stop along the route was Simpson Gap – a short walk to a pretty gorge.

DSC08208 DSC08209

Walk to Simpson’s Gap

DSC08217 DSC08215

Very picturesque in the afternoon light – there was even a group of art students painting the scenery

The sun was starting to set, so we decided to make camp at the next stop – Standley Chasm, which is aboriginal owned and operated. Admission to the chasm is around AUD$10pp, and camping is AUD$18.50pp, so it made sense to just stay the night sine we wanted to see the chasm anyways. After setting up our tent & mattress, we hit the trail to check out the chasm before it got dark.

DSC08220 DSC08221

Standley Chasm is one of the many scenic stops along the 12-20 day Larapinta Trail

DSC08229 DSC08224

Our view was very shady – the best time to view the chasm is at midday when the sun is shining directly down the chasm – it makes the walls glow!

We had a sober picnic dinner in the camp dining area as we had forgotten to buy wine in Alice Springs, and we learned that the majority of the Outback is dry! Tip to anyone making the trip: stock up in Alice, as the only places to buy booze will be resorts and wayside inns (which will charge a premium) – although even if we had remembered to buy wine, it would have been disrespectful to drink it on Aboriginal land, so it all worked out for the best that night.

DSC08234

A meal without wine?! The hardship of the desert!

Once the sun went down, we had our first real glimpse of the unpolluted night sky! We had a waxing half-moon, but the Milky Way was still incredibly vibrant. We started experimenting with our camera settings and discovered that if we set it on the ground with a 10sec timer, the shutter would stay open long enough to capture amazing shots of the starry sky! Desert MAGIC.

DSC08238 DSC08242

All the stars are just for us.

May 11th, 2016

Day 43: Chateau Tanunda, Barossa Valley

After a good night’s rest, Lindsay woke up refreshed and ready for some wine! We headed up to the Barossa Valley to visit one winery – a winery that Lindsay was very familiar with from her former job at Banfi – Chateau Tanunda!

Reading the brochures, watching the PowerPoint & videos, even tasting a fair number of the wines, cannot compare with visiting the Chateau in person. The property is absolutely gorgeous – at one time the largest building in South Australia! – with perfect, manicured gardens (apparently they do weddings) and large cricket pitch. Crazy to think at one point, the Chateau was in danger of being torn down before the Geber Family purchased it in the 1980s – it’s truly a regional landmark.

DSC08182 DSC08202 DSC08183

The Chateau!

But enough about the building – we really came here to taste some stellar Australian wines! Sadly, the sparkling wines from Chateau Tanunda are not imported to the USA (blame our silly taxation laws – it prevents a lot of beautiful bubbles from being imported), so Lindsay & Igor were super excited to get a glass each to sip during our VIP tour of the winery.

DSC08180 DSC08181 DSC08188

Bubbles, bubbles, bubbles! I’ll take all the bubbles please.

After the tour, Lindsay & Igor continued tasting through every open bottle of wine that has yet to make it stateside. (In addition to the classic Barossa Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon & Riesling available in the USA, Chateau Tanunda has some lovely small production reds and whites from more esoteric varietals: Old Vine Semillon, a “Three Graces” Rhone-style blend of Viognier, Marsanne & Roussanne, plus “the good stuff” including their Everest range which is the pinnacle of their collection.) Once again remembering smart tasting practices, we ordered a cheese plate to accompany our wine tasting.

DSC08186 DSC08193 DSC08195

Touring the winery with bubbles in hand – checking out the former cement tanks which have been converted into tasting rooms

DSC08184 DSC08200

So many delicious wines to taste – a bit of cheese gives us the strength to taste more!

By a stroke of luck, Michelle Geber happened to be in town when we were at the Chateau, so we were able to catch up during her wee lunch break (as the General Manager for the company, she is a busy lady!). We had so much to catch up on, the time just flew by – we wish we had another night in the area, maybe we would have remembered to take a group photo.

After a full afternoon at the winery, we headed up to Adelaide for the night. We had time for one last sight-seeing stop – the “Whispering Wall” – a curved dam at the Barossa Reservoir with acoustics so amazing, you can literally hear what someone is whispering from 140m away. Igor was convinced they were just using speakers.

DSC08203 DSC08204

Cloudy view of the Barossa from Mengler Hill & Igor walking 140m to the other side of the Whispering Wall

Once we got into the city, we checked into our hotel and wandered the streets for take away to enjoy with a bottle of Chateau Tanunda bubbly – cheers!

DSC08205 DSC08206

Mexican? Chinese? Everything pairs with bubbles!

May 10th, 2016

Day 42: Escape from Kangaroo Island / Fleurieu Peninsula

While the weather wasn’t perfect, it was good enough for our ferry to run. Since we had most of the morning free before we had to head off, we drove around in an attempt to explore the other conservation parks on Kangaroo Island. Unfortunately, the two closest to Penneshaw didn’t appear to have any walking trails, so we returned to town for some warn scones and muffin as a consolation.

DSC08150 Muffin

A promising sunrise! Enjoying a warm muffin with cream, recommended by Inna from her stay in KI!

20160510_102728 scone

Scones & jam – a delightful brekky!

We boarded the packed ferry (bypassing a long line of cars, hoping for a no-show spot to open up!), and enjoyed a very rocky trip back to the mainland. Since our accommodations for the night were south of Adelaide, we decided to take it easy, and explore the Fleurieu Peninsula. The only park on the map was Deep Creek Conservation Park, so we decided to check it out. The signposts in the park pointed toward “Blowhole Beach”, which sounded promising, so we drove out, only to find the final 3KM of the road was 4WD only. We calculated that a 3KM walk should only take about 30 minutes, so we parked the car on the side of the road and continued on foot.

DSC08153 DSC08154

Back on mainland Australia – where there are still plenty of kangaroos

DSC08156 DSC08157

Igor has a bit of a fetish for dead trees – there were lots for him to photograph in Deep Cove

DSC08158 DSC08159

I”t’s only 3KM to the beach, let’s walk it!,” says Lindsay

DSC08162 DSC08164

OMG it’s so steep – bad idea bear to walk

DSC08165 DSC08171

There’s the beach – but no blowhole! I want to lodge a complaint!!

Unfortunately, by the time we arrived at the Port Willunga RV Park to check into our “wooden tent”, Lindsay was feeling really ill due to some belated sea-sickness from the ferry. Poor Igor had to enjoy the sunset by himself. Too bad, because the wooden tent was actually a really cool little “hotel room”!

DSC08176

Getting late, time to head for our hotel for the night

DSC08178 DSC08179

Sunset from our wooden tent